A really yummy and impressive side dish that people won't forget. A "Galette" refers to French cakes with lots of layers. While not a dessert, this does have plenty of layers.
7-8 Yukon Gold potatoes (you can use Idaho, but the Yukon's have a buttery taste and flavor that lends themselves perfectly to this dish.)
1-3 gloves garlic (depending on taste)
1 1/2 cups heavy cream
2.5 cups grated Jarlsberg (traditionally this is made with Gruyere, but it tends to overwhelm the dish instead of meld with the other flavors)
Salt & Pepper to taste
1) Preheat the oven to 375. Cut a garlic clove in half and rub the inside of a Pyrex baking dish with it (if the clove dries, cut off another slice).
2) Grate the cheese and set aside. If you're a garlic lover like me, then mince the remaining garlic cloves very finely and mix it in with the cheese.
3) Peel and slice the potatoes thinly, 1/16 of an inch, any thicker and they won't cook all the way through. A mandolin is a god-send for this, and you can use a box grater as well, but it tends to slice too thickly. Of course, you can also do it by hand.
4) Start layering with the potatoes on the bottom, then cheese, ending with a cheese layer on top. On every potato layer, very lightly sprinkle with salt and fresh pepper. Don't layer all the way to the top. Stop about a 1/2 an inch below the rim of the baking dish -- the Galette will bubble up and rise slightly in the oven.
5) Pour the heavy cream over the entire Galette. Bake in the oven uncovered for 45 minutes or until the top is nicely browned and you can see the cream bubbling between the layers.
Enjoy, I know you will.
December 23, 2007
December 21, 2007
Foodie Movies
Movies that make my mouth water!
Big Night
What an amazing cast! Tony Sheloub, Marc Anthony, Stanley Tucci, Minnie Driver, Isabella Rosalini, Liev Schrieber... never heard of it? Not surprised. It didn't make a lot of money, and it wasn't a runaway hit, but that's just too bad. It follows the story of two brothers from Italy trying to make it big in 1950's NY . It's touching, funny, sad, and the food in this pic makes you so hungry! Instead of popcorn, watch this one with a bowl of pasta.
Eat Drink Man Woman
Talk about making you hungry, GOOD GOD! This is a really great movie about a widowed, semi-retired executive Chef in China whose three daughters very quickly fall in love and move-out. It has so much humour and an energy to it that American movies seem to lack. All that aside, the food in this movie is not to be believed. Dishes that we don't ever see in America... it's SO not fair. Of course, like most families, through the sadness, and confusion, it's the food that connects them.
*They made an American version called "Tortilla Soup" that follows Hector Elizondo and his girls. Surprisingly, it's pretty good.
Dinner Rush
I really only know about his movie because I briefly worked with the man who produced it, but it's a real shame that it didn't get more publicity. The movie isn't actually about food per se, but the NYC restaurant world. I highly recommend you rent this gem. A really great cast of NY actors, an original script with twists in it, and an honest and true look at the NYC "scene." Everyone who sees this pic loves it.
Babette's Feast
Based on a story by Isak Dinesen (worth a read), this quirky and wonderful film should not be missed. The movie takes place a small town in Denmark, and follows a French refugee and the two sisters who take her in. As it turns out, Babette (the refugee) was one of the top chefs in Paris before she left, and has the opportunity to make a feast unlike anything the sisters, let alone the audience, has ever seen. Brilliantly art directed, and between the costumes and the candle light, and the exquisite food, there's no reason for you skip it.
Tampopo
I couldn't even begin to tell you what this about. Taking place in Japan, it follows a sleu of really odd characters, has about 12 story lines, makes no sense, and yet somehow is so enjoyable and fun to watch. The entire movie is about food. The love of food, the cooking of food, the sensuality of food, none of which is surprising considering the Japanese love of all things culinary. I know it might sound insane, but between the noodles, the broths, pickles, and fish, it's Duchess-worthy indeed.
Mostly Martha
They just recently remade this with Catherine Zeta Jones and called it "No Reservations," that one you can skip. However, the original German movie you can't. It's about a stuck-in-her-ways German chef who's sister dies and takes in her daughter, Martha's neice. On top of that, there's a new chef in the kitchen who's a little too loosy-goosey for Martha's liking. The story is great and like so many foreign films, it's quirky and light-hearted without being overly sappy. Of course, there's food too. Amazing Italian food that people fall in love over, and wonderful restaurant kitchen scenes.
Chocolat
A Foodie Fairytale come to life. This was such a precious movie (maybe a little too precious at times), that it was hard to resist. Of course that was the point. Based on a book by Joanne Harris (which is also charming and a fun little read), it's about a mother and daughter who jump from town to town and make chocolate. This time, they land in a small town in France during Lent. All I can say, is that in the battle between Chocolate and Jesus, Chocolate wins.
Willy Wonka or Charlie & The Chocolate Factory
Doesn't matter which version you like, they're both yummy. Every kids dream come true, what's NOT to like? Perfect movie for those cloudy gray days.
Like Water For Chocolate
Personally, I'm not a fan. It's just too much like a Soap Opera for my taste. However, people really seem to love this movie; it's dramatic, widely romantic, and even I have to admit, there are some divine cooking scenes. If nothing else, it's beautiful to look at.
Ratatouille
The best (only?) animated foodie movie ever! So irresistible and whimsical. A rat who wants to cook and runs to Paris to do so? FABULOUS! If for some reason you have yet to watch it, do yourself a favor. Ratat will make you smile from start to finish.
Waitress
Quirky and sort of strange, but utterly enjoyable. The acting is good, the script is original, and like so many other foodies movies, has a Fairy Tale quality to it that I always fall for. A perfect little anytime movie about a sad waitress, with a horrible husband, an affair that can't go anywhere, and an uncanny ability to make pie, wonderful pie.
Big Night
What an amazing cast! Tony Sheloub, Marc Anthony, Stanley Tucci, Minnie Driver, Isabella Rosalini, Liev Schrieber... never heard of it? Not surprised. It didn't make a lot of money, and it wasn't a runaway hit, but that's just too bad. It follows the story of two brothers from Italy trying to make it big in 1950's NY . It's touching, funny, sad, and the food in this pic makes you so hungry! Instead of popcorn, watch this one with a bowl of pasta.Eat Drink Man Woman
Talk about making you hungry, GOOD GOD! This is a really great movie about a widowed, semi-retired executive Chef in China whose three daughters very quickly fall in love and move-out. It has so much humour and an energy to it that American movies seem to lack. All that aside, the food in this movie is not to be believed. Dishes that we don't ever see in America... it's SO not fair. Of course, like most families, through the sadness, and confusion, it's the food that connects them. *They made an American version called "Tortilla Soup" that follows Hector Elizondo and his girls. Surprisingly, it's pretty good.
Dinner Rush
I really only know about his movie because I briefly worked with the man who produced it, but it's a real shame that it didn't get more publicity. The movie isn't actually about food per se, but the NYC restaurant world. I highly recommend you rent this gem. A really great cast of NY actors, an original script with twists in it, and an honest and true look at the NYC "scene." Everyone who sees this pic loves it.Babette's Feast
Based on a story by Isak Dinesen (worth a read), this quirky and wonderful film should not be missed. The movie takes place a small town in Denmark, and follows a French refugee and the two sisters who take her in. As it turns out, Babette (the refugee) was one of the top chefs in Paris before she left, and has the opportunity to make a feast unlike anything the sisters, let alone the audience, has ever seen. Brilliantly art directed, and between the costumes and the candle light, and the exquisite food, there's no reason for you skip it.Tampopo
I couldn't even begin to tell you what this about. Taking place in Japan, it follows a sleu of really odd characters, has about 12 story lines, makes no sense, and yet somehow is so enjoyable and fun to watch. The entire movie is about food. The love of food, the cooking of food, the sensuality of food, none of which is surprising considering the Japanese love of all things culinary. I know it might sound insane, but between the noodles, the broths, pickles, and fish, it's Duchess-worthy indeed.Mostly Martha
They just recently remade this with Catherine Zeta Jones and called it "No Reservations," that one you can skip. However, the original German movie you can't. It's about a stuck-in-her-ways German chef who's sister dies and takes in her daughter, Martha's neice. On top of that, there's a new chef in the kitchen who's a little too loosy-goosey for Martha's liking. The story is great and like so many foreign films, it's quirky and light-hearted without being overly sappy. Of course, there's food too. Amazing Italian food that people fall in love over, and wonderful restaurant kitchen scenes.Chocolat
A Foodie Fairytale come to life. This was such a precious movie (maybe a little too precious at times), that it was hard to resist. Of course that was the point. Based on a book by Joanne Harris (which is also charming and a fun little read), it's about a mother and daughter who jump from town to town and make chocolate. This time, they land in a small town in France during Lent. All I can say, is that in the battle between Chocolate and Jesus, Chocolate wins.Willy Wonka or Charlie & The Chocolate Factory
Doesn't matter which version you like, they're both yummy. Every kids dream come true, what's NOT to like? Perfect movie for those cloudy gray days.Like Water For Chocolate
Personally, I'm not a fan. It's just too much like a Soap Opera for my taste. However, people really seem to love this movie; it's dramatic, widely romantic, and even I have to admit, there are some divine cooking scenes. If nothing else, it's beautiful to look at.Ratatouille
The best (only?) animated foodie movie ever! So irresistible and whimsical. A rat who wants to cook and runs to Paris to do so? FABULOUS! If for some reason you have yet to watch it, do yourself a favor. Ratat will make you smile from start to finish.Waitress
Quirky and sort of strange, but utterly enjoyable. The acting is good, the script is original, and like so many other foodies movies, has a Fairy Tale quality to it that I always fall for. A perfect little anytime movie about a sad waitress, with a horrible husband, an affair that can't go anywhere, and an uncanny ability to make pie, wonderful pie.
December 20, 2007
Educational Purposes
Mary Poppins has “Supercalifragilistic,” Emeril has “Bam,” Ahhnold has “I’ll be bahhk,” and I have “educational purposes.” Ok, to be fair, it’s not actually mine, it belongs to my family, but close enough.
The year was 1993, and a teenage Duchess-in-training was on vacation in Spain with her Mother and Father, the Duke and Duchess of West 71st Street. It became very clear, very early on, that restraint and Spain were two words that didn’t melt well together. Spain is a culinary bastion – there are cultural and culinary influences from around the world and the dishes change from region to region. Of course, Gambas A La Plancha (roasted Shrimp) are everywhere, as are various cured meats, and Flan. That being said however, it became increasingly difficult for us to justify yet another slice of Flan, or another glass of Sangria simply because we hadn't had it “here” (here being whatever, town, city, bakery, restaurant or person’s house we happened to be in at that moment) before.
Enter “Educational Purposes.” I do believe that is was my Mother, the Duchess of West 71st Street, who created our lovely little mantra. We just had Jamon Serrano (an aged, cured ham) from the Butcher down the block, but those guys over there had been making it for 50 years longer, hmmmm what to do? I mean really, could one beautifully marbled and cured slice of pig be better than another? Only one way to find out but, what about guilt and excess? AHA! “Educational Purposes,” GUILT BE DAMNED.
"Educational purposes" also popped up the first time my Father and I went to Philly. We simply had to have a Cheesesteak at both Gino's and Pat's (the two most famous Cheesesteak joints). Now let's be honest here; I like a good Philly Cheesesteak as much as the next gal, but Fillet Mignon it ain't. That being said howewver, we did it anyway, for "educational purposes." If nothing else, it was a hell of a lot of fun. By the way, have you ever tried to tear a Philly Cheesesteak in half? Don't do it... it's not pretty.
Now, don’t abuse the magic of “educational purposes”. This is NOT permission to eat an entire pizza, and breadsticks, and mozzarella sticks, and a pint of ice cream – nope, this is permission to explore. Not sure which place has the better pizza? “Educational purposes,” try a slice from both. Exploring Chinatown, and see that two bakeries have the same pastry that you just discovered you like, “educational purposes,” try it at both places.
In fact, I give you permission to be as adventurous as you want! Go to that weird Balinese place down the street, ask questions, try something new for “educational purposes”. You didn’t like that dish there? Don’t let that stop you! You cross the street and try it over there instead -- all in the name of “educational purposes”. Let the magic take over and make you that gutsy eater you always wanted to be. And remember, as always, you don’t have to like it, but you have to try it!
Pumpkin Ravioli with Brown Sage Butter
The best Pumpkin Ravioli I've found is from Buon Italia in Chelsea Market. However, not only doesn't the ravioli have to be from Buon Italia, it doesn't have to be pumpkin either (although the combo of the pumpkin and sage is really yummy)
1 Box Fresh Pumpkin Ravioli
3 TBS Butter (not salted)
6 Fresh Sage leaves, plus extra for garnish
Grated Cheese
Salt & pepper
1. Put the salted pasta water on to boil. Put the butter in a pan (because you want to the butter to "brown" it's better to a non-black pan since you won't really be able to see the color change) and start cooking on low heat. Keep it cooking until it just starts to turn from yellow to a deep beige. Put in the sage leaves.
2. Boil the ravioli. This shouldn't take more than about 3 minutes. Any longer and the pasta will start to split and the pumpkin stuffing will start to ooze out. Strain it and put it in a bowl.
3. By now the butter should be a nice Teddy-Bear-Brown color. Pour it over the pasta and lightly sprinkle it with grated cheese, and salt and pepper it to taste. Put some fresh sage leaves on top for razzle-dazzle and enjoy!
1 Box Fresh Pumpkin Ravioli
3 TBS Butter (not salted)
6 Fresh Sage leaves, plus extra for garnish
Grated Cheese
Salt & pepper
1. Put the salted pasta water on to boil. Put the butter in a pan (because you want to the butter to "brown" it's better to a non-black pan since you won't really be able to see the color change) and start cooking on low heat. Keep it cooking until it just starts to turn from yellow to a deep beige. Put in the sage leaves.
2. Boil the ravioli. This shouldn't take more than about 3 minutes. Any longer and the pasta will start to split and the pumpkin stuffing will start to ooze out. Strain it and put it in a bowl.
3. By now the butter should be a nice Teddy-Bear-Brown color. Pour it over the pasta and lightly sprinkle it with grated cheese, and salt and pepper it to taste. Put some fresh sage leaves on top for razzle-dazzle and enjoy!
December 19, 2007
Fave Places to Eat Out
Some are cheap, some are pricey, some are hip, some are oldies, but they are ALL Duchess-worthy.
Balthazar
www.balthazarny.com
As I've said before, this is quite possibly my favorite resteraunt in NYC. The food isn't revolutionary, the decor isn't cutting edge, and it's not trendy. What it is however, is an escape. It takes you to another place if only for a few hours. The food is always good, and always buzzing with happy eaters. It's classicaly bistro, from decor to food, and I love it... 'nuff said.
Grandma's Original Pizza
6918 3rd Avenue
Bay Ridge, Brooklyn
I moved to Bay Ridge this past summer, and knowing it was an Italian Neighborhood, my first question was "what's the best pizza." Overwhelmingly, the answer was Grandma's. I dunno if there was or is a Grandma, but the pizza there is wonderful and suprising. It's square with a super thin crust, has fresh mozzarella, their own tomato sauce with chunks of garlic in it, pesto, and romano cheese -- which is sweeter than Reggiano. The result is crispy, sweet, salty, melty, and heaven! If you're in Bay Ridge, stop by, you won't be dissapointed.
*Everyone has a favorite pizza place of course, please let me know yours. Maybe I'll make a pizza sojourn across the city and post the results!
La Paella
www.lapaellanyc.com
This place is perpetually crowded, and for good reason. They make really really good Paella, and the Sagria flows in abundance from very large, very black, very ugly garbage cans. The menu is soley Paella and Tapas, hence the name, and I've never had a bad meal there. However, becuase they don't take reservations, between 7-10 it's jammed. If you can go earlier or later, great -- if not you might be waiting for 30-45 minutes for a table. Just remember, the reward is worth the wait!
Mr Tang's
50 Mott Street
212-233-8898
This isn't the best food in Chinatown at all. It isn't the best people watching, or even the best deocration. No, Mr. Tang's is on here for one reason... Salt Baked Squid (sometimes called, Salt and Pepper Squid).
If you've never had it, you're missing out. It's squid which has been baked or fried in a cripsy, salty batter, and then sprinkled with hot peppers and garlic. It's hands-down one of my favorite all-time dishes, and I find myself craving it and having to make Tang trips. Let me say, whenever I see this on a menu I order it, and Tang's seems to be the best. Please feel free to let me know of your Salt Baked Squid find though, I'm ALWAYS willing to have it for... educational purposes.
Kuruma Zushi Sushi
7 East 47th street
212-317-2802
The freshest, most traditional, most expertly prepapred Sushi in NYC. Forget that corner Sushi place you go to, you haven't had Sushi until you've come to Kuruma. The Sushi is so good, that it actually ruins you for that other "stuff." Toshihiro Uezu, the chef and owner, trained for years under other master Sushi chefs until he was ready for his own place... and it shows. Nothing is ever too big to fit in your mouth, has too much fat or too little, or too anything. It's just perfect.
About the cost: it's cheaper than flying to Japan.
You can, if you show a HUGE amount of restraint eat reasonably (and by reasonably I mean $150-$200 pp), but really, save up the pennies, and go all out just once, it's more worth it than you can imagine.
MORE TO COME....
Balthazar
www.balthazarny.com
As I've said before, this is quite possibly my favorite resteraunt in NYC. The food isn't revolutionary, the decor isn't cutting edge, and it's not trendy. What it is however, is an escape. It takes you to another place if only for a few hours. The food is always good, and always buzzing with happy eaters. It's classicaly bistro, from decor to food, and I love it... 'nuff said.
Grandma's Original Pizza
6918 3rd Avenue
Bay Ridge, Brooklyn
I moved to Bay Ridge this past summer, and knowing it was an Italian Neighborhood, my first question was "what's the best pizza." Overwhelmingly, the answer was Grandma's. I dunno if there was or is a Grandma, but the pizza there is wonderful and suprising. It's square with a super thin crust, has fresh mozzarella, their own tomato sauce with chunks of garlic in it, pesto, and romano cheese -- which is sweeter than Reggiano. The result is crispy, sweet, salty, melty, and heaven! If you're in Bay Ridge, stop by, you won't be dissapointed.
*Everyone has a favorite pizza place of course, please let me know yours. Maybe I'll make a pizza sojourn across the city and post the results!
La Paella
www.lapaellanyc.com
This place is perpetually crowded, and for good reason. They make really really good Paella, and the Sagria flows in abundance from very large, very black, very ugly garbage cans. The menu is soley Paella and Tapas, hence the name, and I've never had a bad meal there. However, becuase they don't take reservations, between 7-10 it's jammed. If you can go earlier or later, great -- if not you might be waiting for 30-45 minutes for a table. Just remember, the reward is worth the wait!
Mr Tang's
50 Mott Street
212-233-8898
This isn't the best food in Chinatown at all. It isn't the best people watching, or even the best deocration. No, Mr. Tang's is on here for one reason... Salt Baked Squid (sometimes called, Salt and Pepper Squid).
If you've never had it, you're missing out. It's squid which has been baked or fried in a cripsy, salty batter, and then sprinkled with hot peppers and garlic. It's hands-down one of my favorite all-time dishes, and I find myself craving it and having to make Tang trips. Let me say, whenever I see this on a menu I order it, and Tang's seems to be the best. Please feel free to let me know of your Salt Baked Squid find though, I'm ALWAYS willing to have it for... educational purposes.
Kuruma Zushi Sushi
7 East 47th street
212-317-2802
The freshest, most traditional, most expertly prepapred Sushi in NYC. Forget that corner Sushi place you go to, you haven't had Sushi until you've come to Kuruma. The Sushi is so good, that it actually ruins you for that other "stuff." Toshihiro Uezu, the chef and owner, trained for years under other master Sushi chefs until he was ready for his own place... and it shows. Nothing is ever too big to fit in your mouth, has too much fat or too little, or too anything. It's just perfect.
About the cost: it's cheaper than flying to Japan.
You can, if you show a HUGE amount of restraint eat reasonably (and by reasonably I mean $150-$200 pp), but really, save up the pennies, and go all out just once, it's more worth it than you can imagine.
MORE TO COME....
December 18, 2007
Marinated Flank Steak
This is a constant go to recipe. Odds are you already have 95% of this in your kitchen already, everyone loves it, and it's super easy.
1 1/2 - 1 3/4 Flank Steak
1/4 cup Lemon Juice
2 TBS Worcestershire Sauce
2 TBS Dijon Mustard
2 TBS Olive Oil
1 TBS Sugar
3 Chopped garlic cloves
1/2 TSP salt
1/4 TSP ground pepper
1. Whisk lemon juice, Worcestershire, mustard, 1 tablespoon olive oil, sugar, garlic, salt, and pepper in a shallow dish (this is what the steak marinates in, I use a Pyrex baking dish, it's just the right size). Peirce the steak all over with a fork, place it in the dish. Flip it once while it's marinating in the fridge... 1/2 hour to an hour, you don't really have to cover it but you can if you want.
2. Heat the other TBS of olive oil in a very hot cast iron pan (I use my cast iron grill pan, but a flat one will do as well.) Cook the meat however you like it - you'll find no steak snobbery from me. Personally, I don't things bloody, so for medium-well, it's about 6-7 minutes per side, rare 3-4, medium 5-6. Let the meat rest... this is vital! Never cut into a hot off of the pan steak. When you let it rest, the juices have time to be sucked back into the meat instead of oozing onto your plate.
3. Pour the stuff left in the skillet into a saucepan and boil it. Strain what's left, and pour it over the meat.
*A note on cutting steak of any kind: always always always cut against the grain. If you cut with the grain, not only does it make your job more difficult, but you don't get those lovely clean slices that you see in those Beef commercials.
1 1/2 - 1 3/4 Flank Steak
1/4 cup Lemon Juice
2 TBS Worcestershire Sauce
2 TBS Dijon Mustard
2 TBS Olive Oil
1 TBS Sugar
3 Chopped garlic cloves
1/2 TSP salt
1/4 TSP ground pepper
1. Whisk lemon juice, Worcestershire, mustard, 1 tablespoon olive oil, sugar, garlic, salt, and pepper in a shallow dish (this is what the steak marinates in, I use a Pyrex baking dish, it's just the right size). Peirce the steak all over with a fork, place it in the dish. Flip it once while it's marinating in the fridge... 1/2 hour to an hour, you don't really have to cover it but you can if you want.
2. Heat the other TBS of olive oil in a very hot cast iron pan (I use my cast iron grill pan, but a flat one will do as well.) Cook the meat however you like it - you'll find no steak snobbery from me. Personally, I don't things bloody, so for medium-well, it's about 6-7 minutes per side, rare 3-4, medium 5-6. Let the meat rest... this is vital! Never cut into a hot off of the pan steak. When you let it rest, the juices have time to be sucked back into the meat instead of oozing onto your plate.
3. Pour the stuff left in the skillet into a saucepan and boil it. Strain what's left, and pour it over the meat.
*A note on cutting steak of any kind: always always always cut against the grain. If you cut with the grain, not only does it make your job more difficult, but you don't get those lovely clean slices that you see in those Beef commercials.
December 12, 2007
Bakeries
Where to buy your cookies, breads, and cakes
Vaniero's
www.venierospastry.com
Vaniero's is arguably the most famous Bakery in NYC. For Italian, and Italian-American pastries and desserts it's heaven. For me though, the stuff is hit or miss. Some is wonderful, and some just ordinary and even junky. But if nothing else, it's a NYC landmark of sorts, and the mob scene can be fun to watch.
La Bergamote
169 9th Avenue
(Corner of 20th)
Far and away the best croissants and chocolate croissants I've ever had in America let alone NYC. An amazing little fairly unknown bakery in Chelsea, they have a loyal fan base. Besides the croissants, the cakes and tarts are lovely as well, and apparently they have really nice sandwiches at lunch time too. I would highly recommend a stop in here.
Casa Cupcake (formally The Cupcake Cafe)
www.cupcakecafe.com
The home of ultra rich buttercream. This Ninth Avenue staple has been turning out the prettiest, richest, and most decadent cakes and cupcakes for years. They will pipe a cake with any colors, flavors, and flowers you could imagine, which always puts a smile on people's faces. You can't eat terribly much, but what you can is a total treat!
Soutine Bakery
www.soutine.com
This place holds a special place in my heart being the place where we always got my birthday cakes from. It was the same cake every year, white cake with lemon curd filling, white frosting with yellow flowers. It was always good and always pretty. They still churn out the cakes for Upper West Side's kids' birthdays. They'll put anything on a cake for you, and even do lovely wedding cakes now too.
Amy's Bread
www.amysbread.com
Her website says it all, but she started with one small store on 9th ave, and has created something of a bread empire in NYC. She has three stores now, and the quality hasn't changed. There is an actual Amy who actually still bakes. Her breads are excellent and are always almost completely gone by the end of the day. Besides bread she makes some really great cookies and pastries. My fave are her various Foccacia.
SaraBeth's
www.sarabethsbakery.com
Another success story. SaraBeth (again there is an actual SaraBeth), opened up a Bakery/Brunch place on the Upper West Side and now you can find her jams across the country. I put her stores on here for one reason... the Pain Matain. It's almost always sold out, but if you can get your hands on it, do it! What she very cleverly did was put all of the left over dough from the other pastries and baked them in little muffin tins – it’s AMAZING. You will start craving them, just warning you. If you go and there are none left (which will usually be the case) her Madeleine Cookies and Cheese Straws are also exemplary.
Black Bear Bakery
www.blackbearbakery.org
I can't actually vouch for very much from this place EXCEPT for the chocolate cake. The chocolate cake is fabulous! It's moist and yummy, and rich without giving you a tummy ache, and just pretty damn perfect.
*For the absolute best Chocolate cake I have EVER had, go to Blue Smoke. It happens to be an upscale BBQ joint off Park Ave South, but don’t let that stop you. You need milk with this, and you need more than once piece.
Poseidon Greek Bakery
629 9th Avenue
Bet. 44th & 45th Street
Family run since God knows when, this is one of the only places left in the country that still makes their own Phyllo dough (a flaky paper-thin dough that comes in sheets). They have all the classic Greek cookies, breads, and pastries, and are more than willing to pronounce and explain what everything is. They also have a frozen foods section, so can bring home your own homemade Phyllo and make Baklava.
Payard
www.payard.com
If you’re willing to shell out your life savings, you too can have a cake from Payard. I have to admit, He (yes there is a Payard, Francois Payard), makes a spectacular looking product, maybe the most elegant looking in the city. However, I always find it to be just "too much." They tend to be a little goopy, and quite frankly, I think you can get a better if not equally tasting cake for much much less. They have some nice chocolates and cookies too, but really, treat it like a museum of pastry and keep moving on.
Lady M Confections
www.ladymconfections.com
SO gorgeous, SO delicious, this is one of my favorite patisseries in NYC. Everything is just impeccably made, amazing looking and drool-worthy-delicious. It's not Payard prices, it's still pricey... BUT WORTH IT! Just check out the website (which could use some work I know), and tell me if you don't just want to run over right now.
Balthazar
www.balthazarny.com
Both a bakery (and one of if not my favorite) restaurants in NYC, Balthazar is always a safe bet. Their breads are amazing, perhaps more amazing than their pastry -- bread in every shape color and grain, all lovely and chewy inside, and crispy and divine outside. If you're a bread lover, go and grab a baguette or country loaf.
Magnolia Bakery
www.magnoliacupcakes.com
Made famous for their adorable and yummy pastel cupcakes, there is line around the block every night... no foolin! While I applaud them for making the cupcake cool again, I have to say, I think the hype has gotten the better of their cupcakes by now, and while it’s still fun to wait on cue for them, you can probably find a better cupcake these days.
Junior's Cheesecake
www.juniorscheesecake.com
A NY Institution. Even I, who really hates American Cheesecake, has to admit that nothing is a Junior's. I don't know what they do, and how they've been able to maintain it for so long, but it is damn good cheesecake.
Little Pie Company
www.littlepiecompany.com
Amazing pies. That's really it. Just really really good pies, and perhaps my favorite thing about them, is that the pies are seasonal. No Strawberry Pies in January, because there are no strawberries in January! They ONLY use the fruits and flavors of the season which means you can't get Key Lime Pie in January either... so there.
City Bakery
www.thecitybakery.com
It's sophisticated, sleek, modern, and happens to have the best damn Lemon Curd Tart in the whole city. I don’t know what they're putting in that thing, but it’s seriously yummy. They serve lunch too, but it’s usually too crowded to sit and stay. But get yourself a salad and lemon curd tart to go, and give me some please!
TAI Pan Bakery Chinatown Incorporated
194 Canal Street
(Between Mulberry & Mott)
I have no idea what half the things are, and the only reason I know what I do know is because I pointed to stuff and tried stuff. They have great (and usually warm) Red Bean Buns, and wonderful curry chicken pastry (which isn't a dessert by the way but a great snack). If you’re just a little bit brave, go “try stuff.” It’s incredibly cheap -- so $2 goes a long long way.
Vaniero's
www.venierospastry.com
Vaniero's is arguably the most famous Bakery in NYC. For Italian, and Italian-American pastries and desserts it's heaven. For me though, the stuff is hit or miss. Some is wonderful, and some just ordinary and even junky. But if nothing else, it's a NYC landmark of sorts, and the mob scene can be fun to watch.
La Bergamote
169 9th Avenue
(Corner of 20th)
Far and away the best croissants and chocolate croissants I've ever had in America let alone NYC. An amazing little fairly unknown bakery in Chelsea, they have a loyal fan base. Besides the croissants, the cakes and tarts are lovely as well, and apparently they have really nice sandwiches at lunch time too. I would highly recommend a stop in here.
Casa Cupcake (formally The Cupcake Cafe)
www.cupcakecafe.com
The home of ultra rich buttercream. This Ninth Avenue staple has been turning out the prettiest, richest, and most decadent cakes and cupcakes for years. They will pipe a cake with any colors, flavors, and flowers you could imagine, which always puts a smile on people's faces. You can't eat terribly much, but what you can is a total treat!
Soutine Bakery
www.soutine.com
This place holds a special place in my heart being the place where we always got my birthday cakes from. It was the same cake every year, white cake with lemon curd filling, white frosting with yellow flowers. It was always good and always pretty. They still churn out the cakes for Upper West Side's kids' birthdays. They'll put anything on a cake for you, and even do lovely wedding cakes now too.
Amy's Bread
www.amysbread.com
Her website says it all, but she started with one small store on 9th ave, and has created something of a bread empire in NYC. She has three stores now, and the quality hasn't changed. There is an actual Amy who actually still bakes. Her breads are excellent and are always almost completely gone by the end of the day. Besides bread she makes some really great cookies and pastries. My fave are her various Foccacia.
SaraBeth's
www.sarabethsbakery.com
Another success story. SaraBeth (again there is an actual SaraBeth), opened up a Bakery/Brunch place on the Upper West Side and now you can find her jams across the country. I put her stores on here for one reason... the Pain Matain. It's almost always sold out, but if you can get your hands on it, do it! What she very cleverly did was put all of the left over dough from the other pastries and baked them in little muffin tins – it’s AMAZING. You will start craving them, just warning you. If you go and there are none left (which will usually be the case) her Madeleine Cookies and Cheese Straws are also exemplary.
Black Bear Bakery
www.blackbearbakery.org
I can't actually vouch for very much from this place EXCEPT for the chocolate cake. The chocolate cake is fabulous! It's moist and yummy, and rich without giving you a tummy ache, and just pretty damn perfect.
*For the absolute best Chocolate cake I have EVER had, go to Blue Smoke. It happens to be an upscale BBQ joint off Park Ave South, but don’t let that stop you. You need milk with this, and you need more than once piece.
Poseidon Greek Bakery
629 9th Avenue
Bet. 44th & 45th Street
Family run since God knows when, this is one of the only places left in the country that still makes their own Phyllo dough (a flaky paper-thin dough that comes in sheets). They have all the classic Greek cookies, breads, and pastries, and are more than willing to pronounce and explain what everything is. They also have a frozen foods section, so can bring home your own homemade Phyllo and make Baklava.
Payard
www.payard.com
If you’re willing to shell out your life savings, you too can have a cake from Payard. I have to admit, He (yes there is a Payard, Francois Payard), makes a spectacular looking product, maybe the most elegant looking in the city. However, I always find it to be just "too much." They tend to be a little goopy, and quite frankly, I think you can get a better if not equally tasting cake for much much less. They have some nice chocolates and cookies too, but really, treat it like a museum of pastry and keep moving on.
Lady M Confections
www.ladymconfections.com
SO gorgeous, SO delicious, this is one of my favorite patisseries in NYC. Everything is just impeccably made, amazing looking and drool-worthy-delicious. It's not Payard prices, it's still pricey... BUT WORTH IT! Just check out the website (which could use some work I know), and tell me if you don't just want to run over right now.
Balthazar
www.balthazarny.com
Both a bakery (and one of if not my favorite) restaurants in NYC, Balthazar is always a safe bet. Their breads are amazing, perhaps more amazing than their pastry -- bread in every shape color and grain, all lovely and chewy inside, and crispy and divine outside. If you're a bread lover, go and grab a baguette or country loaf.
Magnolia Bakery
www.magnoliacupcakes.com
Made famous for their adorable and yummy pastel cupcakes, there is line around the block every night... no foolin! While I applaud them for making the cupcake cool again, I have to say, I think the hype has gotten the better of their cupcakes by now, and while it’s still fun to wait on cue for them, you can probably find a better cupcake these days.
Junior's Cheesecake
www.juniorscheesecake.com
A NY Institution. Even I, who really hates American Cheesecake, has to admit that nothing is a Junior's. I don't know what they do, and how they've been able to maintain it for so long, but it is damn good cheesecake.
Little Pie Company
www.littlepiecompany.com
Amazing pies. That's really it. Just really really good pies, and perhaps my favorite thing about them, is that the pies are seasonal. No Strawberry Pies in January, because there are no strawberries in January! They ONLY use the fruits and flavors of the season which means you can't get Key Lime Pie in January either... so there.
City Bakery
www.thecitybakery.com
It's sophisticated, sleek, modern, and happens to have the best damn Lemon Curd Tart in the whole city. I don’t know what they're putting in that thing, but it’s seriously yummy. They serve lunch too, but it’s usually too crowded to sit and stay. But get yourself a salad and lemon curd tart to go, and give me some please!
TAI Pan Bakery Chinatown Incorporated
194 Canal Street
(Between Mulberry & Mott)
I have no idea what half the things are, and the only reason I know what I do know is because I pointed to stuff and tried stuff. They have great (and usually warm) Red Bean Buns, and wonderful curry chicken pastry (which isn't a dessert by the way but a great snack). If you’re just a little bit brave, go “try stuff.” It’s incredibly cheap -- so $2 goes a long long way.
December 11, 2007
Utensils
What tools to use to cook with
A Few words on Knives:
It’s difficult to give advice since this is a decision made more by preference than anything. Personally, I like a heavy well balanced knife; my fave is the Wusthof Culinar line. However many people like the lighter Japanese knives, and others prefer something in the middle. Then there are wood handles, plastic handles, and metal, then the curve of the blade itself etc… you get the point.
However, the absolute first thing I would suggest is going to a knife skills class. You won’t believe how beneficial and how much time it shaves off your cooking. Then I would go to a William Sonoma, or a Zabars, and speak to someone who really knows what they’re talking about, and pick the right knife for you. This will be and should be expensive. Unless it’s on sale, if you’re getting a knife that’s under $75, think twice, the quality can’t be that great.
Mezzaluna:
You might have seen this little doo-dad in home and kitchen stores and have no idea what it is for. The two semi circular blades (half moons or "mezza luna") are very sharp and fine, and used for chopping delicate things like herbs mostly, and they do the job perfectly. Of course, you can chop pretty much whatever you want with it. I like chopping the small hard-to-chop stuff like garlic and shallots too.
Box Grater:
A must for the kitchen. Four sides, one for slicing (great for potatoes), one for large grating (like cheese), one side for zesting, and another for smaller grating.
Mandolin:
If you tend to slice and shred a lot of veggies, then you might want to consider a mandolin. I'm actually not sure how it gets it name, but it is a handy tool that doesn't take up terribly much space. You can control the thickness, and even how you slice your veggies. You can slice with ridges (like for ruffled potato chips), or you can shred (like for coleslaw). Just be careful because as you can imagine, the blade is terribly sharp and you can wind up slicing off more than you want...
Tongs:
One tends not to see these often in home kitchens, but that's too bad because they come in terribly handy. Better than a spatula for flipping your food, and because of their length, great for sticking things in and out of the oven without burning yourself. They come like this or with a heat resistant rubber coating that's gentler on your food. Cheap and useful.
Bamboo Skimmer:
This handy dandy strainer is perfect for getting veggies out of boiling water, or even pasta. Its about 4-6 inches in diameter with a bamboo (or metal) handle, and so much easier than lifting a heavy hot pot of boiling water and straining it. It can be hard to find in a normal kitchen store, but head down to your local Asian market, and you'll find it. Plus, it's uber cheap -- $5 or less cheap.
French Rolling Pin:
I'm not being a snob about this really! The French rolling pins are in fact superior to Grandma's old pin with the handles. First off, because there are no handles, there's nothing to break off or get loose, and more importantly, no rolling pin lines in your pastry. Plus because of its length, it's easier to wrap your dough around the pin before putting it in your pie dish or baking sheet. It is very long, but also very skinny, so it's not too difficult to find a spot for it. Like most things made of wood though, it doesn't really want to get wet, or it can start warping. So if you have a really sticky job, wet a dishtowel and wipe it over the surface, don't let it sit in water or run it under the tap.
A Few words on Knives:
It’s difficult to give advice since this is a decision made more by preference than anything. Personally, I like a heavy well balanced knife; my fave is the Wusthof Culinar line. However many people like the lighter Japanese knives, and others prefer something in the middle. Then there are wood handles, plastic handles, and metal, then the curve of the blade itself etc… you get the point.
However, the absolute first thing I would suggest is going to a knife skills class. You won’t believe how beneficial and how much time it shaves off your cooking. Then I would go to a William Sonoma, or a Zabars, and speak to someone who really knows what they’re talking about, and pick the right knife for you. This will be and should be expensive. Unless it’s on sale, if you’re getting a knife that’s under $75, think twice, the quality can’t be that great.
Mezzaluna:
You might have seen this little doo-dad in home and kitchen stores and have no idea what it is for. The two semi circular blades (half moons or "mezza luna") are very sharp and fine, and used for chopping delicate things like herbs mostly, and they do the job perfectly. Of course, you can chop pretty much whatever you want with it. I like chopping the small hard-to-chop stuff like garlic and shallots too.Box Grater:
A must for the kitchen. Four sides, one for slicing (great for potatoes), one for large grating (like cheese), one side for zesting, and another for smaller grating. Mandolin:
If you tend to slice and shred a lot of veggies, then you might want to consider a mandolin. I'm actually not sure how it gets it name, but it is a handy tool that doesn't take up terribly much space. You can control the thickness, and even how you slice your veggies. You can slice with ridges (like for ruffled potato chips), or you can shred (like for coleslaw). Just be careful because as you can imagine, the blade is terribly sharp and you can wind up slicing off more than you want...Tongs:
One tends not to see these often in home kitchens, but that's too bad because they come in terribly handy. Better than a spatula for flipping your food, and because of their length, great for sticking things in and out of the oven without burning yourself. They come like this or with a heat resistant rubber coating that's gentler on your food. Cheap and useful.Bamboo Skimmer:
This handy dandy strainer is perfect for getting veggies out of boiling water, or even pasta. Its about 4-6 inches in diameter with a bamboo (or metal) handle, and so much easier than lifting a heavy hot pot of boiling water and straining it. It can be hard to find in a normal kitchen store, but head down to your local Asian market, and you'll find it. Plus, it's uber cheap -- $5 or less cheap.French Rolling Pin:
I'm not being a snob about this really! The French rolling pins are in fact superior to Grandma's old pin with the handles. First off, because there are no handles, there's nothing to break off or get loose, and more importantly, no rolling pin lines in your pastry. Plus because of its length, it's easier to wrap your dough around the pin before putting it in your pie dish or baking sheet. It is very long, but also very skinny, so it's not too difficult to find a spot for it. Like most things made of wood though, it doesn't really want to get wet, or it can start warping. So if you have a really sticky job, wet a dishtowel and wipe it over the surface, don't let it sit in water or run it under the tap.
What to Cook With
Ready to Sauté and Bake? Here's what you do it with:
Le Creuset
www.lecreuset.com
I love Le Creuset. It's cast iron cookware coated in porcelain (lots of fun colors too), impossibly heavy, indestructible, and heavenly. You could potentially hand these down to your grandkids if you wanted to. Because of the even conductivity of Cast Iron and the non-stick ease of the porcelain, very little beats Creuset. Like I said it is impossibly heavy, but it's also the best. Not cheap, but when I say it lasts lifetimes, I mean it. By far, this is my favorite cookware for almost anything. Nothing makes a better stew, or sears, or bakes as evenly. If nothing else, do your self a GREAT GREAT favor and get yourself at 4-6 quart Dutch Oven from them, you won't believe the quality or the 101 uses! Also, Creuset makes a wonderful line of high quality and colorful aluminum pieces like stock pots.
Emile Henry
www.emilehenry.com
Although I don’t have any pieces, it is absolutely right up there with Creuset. The difference is that Emile Henry is pottery, or clay to be exact, that’s been glazed. It's also very durable, although three generations worth, not so sure, and is a great even heat conductor. Not as versatile as Creuset only because you shouldn't really put one of their stovetop pots into the oven or vise versa, they are cast and glazed in different ways and temperatures. But if Creuset is too heavy or too pricey, this is another great way to go, and it also comes in great fun colors.
All Clad
www.all-clad.com
This is what the big boys use. All Clad is the professional standard when it comes to pots and pans. Walk into any restaurant kitchen and you'll find piles of All Clad pans and pots in various form of decay. They can take a serious beating. As with most of the best cookware it is also heavy, although not nearly as heavy as cast iron, which can make it more practical. Probably the most if not one of the most expensive cooking lines on the market, you either need to be a professional, filthy rich and want to show off, or just a die hard cooking fiend to get this.
Calphalon
They make different grades and styles, from non-stick, to "professional," and "classic." They are sturdy, well made pots and pans, and can fit almost any budget. This is what I use when I'm not "creuset-ing." It's perfect stuff for the avid home chef, and because of the variety you can find whatever you need at whatever price.
Cuisinart
Yes, they do make pots and pans. They're ok. I have had some good and bad experiences with the brand. Some of their styles are great and last well, and some sort of conk out on you after a year. Again, they range in price (although tend to be slightly cheaper than the Calphalon), and materials and styles. If you don’t feel like spending too much, and don't cook all the time, this is a fine option. But, for the slightly more enthusiastic and avid home chef, I would stick with the Calphalon.
Pyrex
Pyrex is a laboratory grade glass that won't crack or melt in heat (and rarely will break when dropped)... basically it's indestructible. It’s best for baking. It can take high temps, and is perfect for lasagnas, cobblers, and even chicken dishes. Because it's clear, it's especially great for layered or colorful recipes.
Copper
I have no specific brand for this, but for delicate fish dishes, omelets, and sauces specifically, it's really hard to beat copper. A good copper piece will be expensive, but worth it. Get yourself maybe one or two smaller pieces. Because of the properties of copper and not being as heavy as cast iron for example, it doesn't burn easily, and the heat is incredibly even. Added bonus, it's beautiful, especially hanging from a pot rack.
The basics: what everyone should have
Small non-stick sauté pan (Cuisinart)
Large non-stick sauté pan (Cuisinart)
Medium sauté pan (Creuset or Cuisinart)
Dutch oven (Creuset)
Grill Pan (Creuset)
Large Baking dish (Pyrex)
Small Baking dish (Pyrex)
Stock pot with lid (Creuset)
Large pot with lid (Cuisinart)
Small pot with lid (Cuisinart)
Le Creuset
www.lecreuset.com
I love Le Creuset. It's cast iron cookware coated in porcelain (lots of fun colors too), impossibly heavy, indestructible, and heavenly. You could potentially hand these down to your grandkids if you wanted to. Because of the even conductivity of Cast Iron and the non-stick ease of the porcelain, very little beats Creuset. Like I said it is impossibly heavy, but it's also the best. Not cheap, but when I say it lasts lifetimes, I mean it. By far, this is my favorite cookware for almost anything. Nothing makes a better stew, or sears, or bakes as evenly. If nothing else, do your self a GREAT GREAT favor and get yourself at 4-6 quart Dutch Oven from them, you won't believe the quality or the 101 uses! Also, Creuset makes a wonderful line of high quality and colorful aluminum pieces like stock pots.
Emile Henry
www.emilehenry.com
Although I don’t have any pieces, it is absolutely right up there with Creuset. The difference is that Emile Henry is pottery, or clay to be exact, that’s been glazed. It's also very durable, although three generations worth, not so sure, and is a great even heat conductor. Not as versatile as Creuset only because you shouldn't really put one of their stovetop pots into the oven or vise versa, they are cast and glazed in different ways and temperatures. But if Creuset is too heavy or too pricey, this is another great way to go, and it also comes in great fun colors.
All Clad
www.all-clad.com
This is what the big boys use. All Clad is the professional standard when it comes to pots and pans. Walk into any restaurant kitchen and you'll find piles of All Clad pans and pots in various form of decay. They can take a serious beating. As with most of the best cookware it is also heavy, although not nearly as heavy as cast iron, which can make it more practical. Probably the most if not one of the most expensive cooking lines on the market, you either need to be a professional, filthy rich and want to show off, or just a die hard cooking fiend to get this.
Calphalon
They make different grades and styles, from non-stick, to "professional," and "classic." They are sturdy, well made pots and pans, and can fit almost any budget. This is what I use when I'm not "creuset-ing." It's perfect stuff for the avid home chef, and because of the variety you can find whatever you need at whatever price.
Cuisinart
Yes, they do make pots and pans. They're ok. I have had some good and bad experiences with the brand. Some of their styles are great and last well, and some sort of conk out on you after a year. Again, they range in price (although tend to be slightly cheaper than the Calphalon), and materials and styles. If you don’t feel like spending too much, and don't cook all the time, this is a fine option. But, for the slightly more enthusiastic and avid home chef, I would stick with the Calphalon.
Pyrex
Pyrex is a laboratory grade glass that won't crack or melt in heat (and rarely will break when dropped)... basically it's indestructible. It’s best for baking. It can take high temps, and is perfect for lasagnas, cobblers, and even chicken dishes. Because it's clear, it's especially great for layered or colorful recipes.
Copper
I have no specific brand for this, but for delicate fish dishes, omelets, and sauces specifically, it's really hard to beat copper. A good copper piece will be expensive, but worth it. Get yourself maybe one or two smaller pieces. Because of the properties of copper and not being as heavy as cast iron for example, it doesn't burn easily, and the heat is incredibly even. Added bonus, it's beautiful, especially hanging from a pot rack.
The basics: what everyone should have
Small non-stick sauté pan (Cuisinart)
Large non-stick sauté pan (Cuisinart)
Medium sauté pan (Creuset or Cuisinart)
Dutch oven (Creuset)
Grill Pan (Creuset)
Large Baking dish (Pyrex)
Small Baking dish (Pyrex)
Stock pot with lid (Creuset)
Large pot with lid (Cuisinart)
Small pot with lid (Cuisinart)
December 10, 2007
Basic Quiche Recipe
This is a crowd pleaser, always impressive for how easy it is, and a great anytime meal. Also, it's great hot or cold!
Pate Brisee or frozen pie crust (defrosted)
3 large eggs
1 1/2 cups heavy cream
Salt & Pepper to taste
Preheat the oven to 375
Prepare the crust in its pie/quiche dish (if using homemade Pate Brisee, blind bake for about 10 minutes so that the bottom of the crust cooks through a bit)
Whisk the eggs and the cream together
Add salt and pepper
Bake for 45 minutes or until top is golden brown and toothpick comes out clean
That's it! No Foolin! My favorite add-ins are Sauteed Shitake Mushrooms (about 15 or so, they shrink a bit when cooked), a cup and half of grated Jarlsberg, and diced ham. Just put the add-ins in the pie shell first and add the egg mixture.
Other add-ins: broccoli, salmon, bacon, any kind of cheese, any kind of mushroom, shrimp, steak, ground beef... the options are endless. Just remember raw ingredients won't necessarily cook in the quiche, so it's best to cook things first, then bake.
Pate Brisee or frozen pie crust (defrosted)
3 large eggs
1 1/2 cups heavy cream
Salt & Pepper to taste
Preheat the oven to 375
Prepare the crust in its pie/quiche dish (if using homemade Pate Brisee, blind bake for about 10 minutes so that the bottom of the crust cooks through a bit)
Whisk the eggs and the cream together
Add salt and pepper
Bake for 45 minutes or until top is golden brown and toothpick comes out clean
That's it! No Foolin! My favorite add-ins are Sauteed Shitake Mushrooms (about 15 or so, they shrink a bit when cooked), a cup and half of grated Jarlsberg, and diced ham. Just put the add-ins in the pie shell first and add the egg mixture.
Other add-ins: broccoli, salmon, bacon, any kind of cheese, any kind of mushroom, shrimp, steak, ground beef... the options are endless. Just remember raw ingredients won't necessarily cook in the quiche, so it's best to cook things first, then bake.
December 6, 2007
Someone to Cook For. Or: Excuse Me While I Gush.
There are those of us who love to cook. We like nothing better than starting with ingredients and making something wonderful by adding salt, oil, water, sugar, and bay leaves. For me its always been something that connects me to my Mother, who started off by making Crepes with me every Saturday morning. My Godmother, who I made cookies and chutney with from a young age; the smell of Éclair’s Bakery on West 72nd street on Fridays when we picked up our Challah, or the first time I ate Sushi with my Father, and his constant "you don't have to like it, but you HAVE to try it."
In Culinary school I had a very strong emotional and visceral connection to bread making. Elbow deep in sticky earthy smelling raw dough, kneading in a cloud of white flour, forming the loaf and baking -- it was an instant connection to every woman from the beginning of time who had done the exact same thing I was doing, and it was powerful.
The only real cooking I did while I was still living with my parents was holiday and party cooking. A 20-pound Turkey, fried Chicken for 4th of July, Lamb for Passover. It wasn't until I left home that I started really cooking. I tried different cuts of meats, new techniques, and different flavors. It was my own private culinary school crash course. There was something else I discovered when I was away from home; I didn't like cooking for myself. I didn't see the need to put much effort into food if it were just for me. Yes, it’s a beautiful piece of seared tuna, but it’s just for me, it felt somehow like a waste.
When friends came over for dinner I went all out. Not that it was Lobster and Caviar every time, but it was a dish I put love and time into, and they could taste that. I started dating a man in the summer of '06 -- someone who I felt from our very first date was different. It felt "right." It still does. I made him a Grilled Cheese sandwich early in the relationship. Nothing fancy, just some English Cheddar and the only bread I had -- some marbled rye. He ate about 4 of them. His yumm's and mmmm's made me beam.
He had never had a woman he was seeing cook for him before, I was perfectly happy to remedy that. Now as I said, I never loved cooking for myself, but give me one other person and I'm in heaven. Give me someone I care for, and I relish every drop of sweat, every cut finger, and every burn. I can't say that the way to his heart was through his stomach (although I'm sure it didn't hurt), but I can say that the every time I cook for him, it makes me smile. Seeing him satisfied, or introduced to something new that I've made, something he now loves, is one of the greatest joys of my life at this time.
Food means so much to humans. It means family, holidays, traditions, joy, comfort and a myriad of other memories and emotions. For me, it’s a promise to take care of him, and a promise that he will always have a home to come back to. Some of you might look cynically upon this -- it's not the 1950's anymore -- Women are liberated, and a home cooked meal for your man is no longer a requirement. How backward of you! I am a hard-core liberal, have marched on Washington for Women's Rights, am continually politically active, and have read my Gloria Steinem thank you very much. I'll never be barefoot and pregnant, I'll never put makeup on just because he'll be home in 15 minutes, and I don't have a problem with leaving him alone so I can go out with my friends. However, like a Comic gets a high from the audience's laughter, and an athlete prides herself on her finishing time, I get my greatest boosts when he invites people over for a home-cooked meal, or when he says "it's really good Baby."
Cooking is about connections -- connections to the past, to your ingredients, even to your body. So, it doesn't matter if you’re boiling hot dogs, or taking the whole day to make a roast, the underlying message is always the same. Make something for someone; it doesn't matter if it’s burnt or god-awful, all that matters is that you made the effort. I'm lucky enough to have found someone who appreciates me, and doesn't take me for granted. And for that, he gets quiche, roasts, chocolate mousse, and a place to call home.
December 5, 2007
Rachel Ray is a NTWOAT (no talent waste of air time)
I really hate Rachel Ray.
I'm not sure if it’s the hair, or her weird low voice. I'm not sure if it’s the Dunkin’ Donuts commercials. I'm not sure if it’s the Weather-woman-like reactions to everything -- don't you just half expect her to say "now back to you Ron..."
So it's all that and more. I find her particular brand of dumbed-down food to be the worst kind of 1950's American junk, oooo a twist on a Tuna Casserole! It's the "E.V.O.O." of it all (her "cute" little abbreviation for Extra Virgin Olive Oil). Only, and I mean ONLY could RR (not so cute when tables are turned huh!), make something as classic and lovely as Olive Oil into something that sounds like a McDonald's Marketing Team thought it up. Ok so I'm a snob. I can admit it, and SO WHAT? What's wrong with wanting a cooking show to open up people's ideas and conceptions of food, and make them try something new? Where the hell is Julia Child, or the Galloping Gourmet, or even the Two Fat Ladies when you need them? (Mostly dead I know, a moment of silence please).
Why, I mean really really why did she deserve her own talk show??? Excuse me... a talk show? What planet is this? How many different kinds of Buffalo Wings and Baked Potatos can she make and why do I want to hear her talk about it afterwards in her weird low-voiced-Weather-Woman way?
Anthony Bourdain would back me up on this, and please don't ask me who he is (http://www.anthonybourdain.com/copy.asp?g=1&id=7). He has his own hit list (mostly the pretty boys of the cooking world, top of his list, The Brit, Jamie Oliver. I suspect though his disdain comes from their immense popularity, frat-boy appeal, and just being younger, blonder, and less haggard than he.) Obviously I'm in the minority here, because every time I turn on the TV I see RR selling me dumbed-down American Coffee and Donuts.
Do me a favor and watch the Barefoot Contessa instead. She is just as charming and real, and makes amazing easy-to-make food for her husband, and friends, and her architect, and landscape designer, and vet, and anyone else that walks into her life. Trust me on this, YCTML (you can thank me later).
UPDATE 12/18/07:
Please read this terribly depressing entry from the Gothamist.
http://gothamist.com/2007/12/18/the_relentless.php
I'm not sure if it’s the hair, or her weird low voice. I'm not sure if it’s the Dunkin’ Donuts commercials. I'm not sure if it’s the Weather-woman-like reactions to everything -- don't you just half expect her to say "now back to you Ron..."
So it's all that and more. I find her particular brand of dumbed-down food to be the worst kind of 1950's American junk, oooo a twist on a Tuna Casserole! It's the "E.V.O.O." of it all (her "cute" little abbreviation for Extra Virgin Olive Oil). Only, and I mean ONLY could RR (not so cute when tables are turned huh!), make something as classic and lovely as Olive Oil into something that sounds like a McDonald's Marketing Team thought it up. Ok so I'm a snob. I can admit it, and SO WHAT? What's wrong with wanting a cooking show to open up people's ideas and conceptions of food, and make them try something new? Where the hell is Julia Child, or the Galloping Gourmet, or even the Two Fat Ladies when you need them? (Mostly dead I know, a moment of silence please).
Why, I mean really really why did she deserve her own talk show??? Excuse me... a talk show? What planet is this? How many different kinds of Buffalo Wings and Baked Potatos can she make and why do I want to hear her talk about it afterwards in her weird low-voiced-Weather-Woman way?
Anthony Bourdain would back me up on this, and please don't ask me who he is (http://www.anthonybourdain.com/copy.asp?g=1&id=7). He has his own hit list (mostly the pretty boys of the cooking world, top of his list, The Brit, Jamie Oliver. I suspect though his disdain comes from their immense popularity, frat-boy appeal, and just being younger, blonder, and less haggard than he.) Obviously I'm in the minority here, because every time I turn on the TV I see RR selling me dumbed-down American Coffee and Donuts.
Do me a favor and watch the Barefoot Contessa instead. She is just as charming and real, and makes amazing easy-to-make food for her husband, and friends, and her architect, and landscape designer, and vet, and anyone else that walks into her life. Trust me on this, YCTML (you can thank me later).
UPDATE 12/18/07:
Please read this terribly depressing entry from the Gothamist.
http://gothamist.com/2007/12/18/the_relentless.php
Oil Oil everywhere!
Don't Call it E.V.O.O.!!
Oil is essential in the kitchen. But, there are so many kinds, what's good, what do you use, and when?
Olive Oils
Great for dressings, sauces, sautéing, baking/roasting. Because of its low heat tolerance and high smoke levels not so great for frying.
Extra Virgin Olive Oil/Cold Press is a label that's given to the first batch of collected olives... in essence the youngest olives. They are processed without heat or chemicals and therefore fetch a higher price; to be Extra Virgin, there needs to be an acid level of below %0.6. Because of the flavor, these are best for dressings, and sauces, and dishes where the delicacy can shine through.
Normal Olive Oils are made from later batches of olives and might be heat processed (if by a larger commercial company), or chemically treated for impurities. This doesn't mean it’s not as good, just means it’s not as fragrant. It’s better for the sautéing and cooking since the flavor won't be wasted on these kinds of dishes.
*Olive Oil comes from around the globe. Personally, the oils with the best flavors are from Greece. They are the most robust, most fragrant, and amazing enough to eat straight from a spoon (my favorite easy-to-find Greek Olive Oil is "Iliada," if you can find the Organic Extra Virgin, even better!). Italian and Spanish Oils are a close second. Spanish Oils tend to be yellowish in color and have a medium strength flavor. Italian oils are more green and also have a medium flavor (although depending on the area of Italy, they can be as strong as Greek). French Olive Oil is very mild, (wimpy if you ask me) and not a favorite, but if you like mild (and boring), it’s heaven. Recently, and depending on where you live, you can find Middle Eastern/Israeli Olive Oils. I actually like these a great deal. The ones I've tried tend to be fragrant and sweeter than the Greek Oils which come across as earthier and nutty, not terribly expensive either.
Vegetable Oil:
Available everywhere and great for cooking. Personally, I'm not a big Veggie oil fan when it comes to deep frying, but for sautéing or frying an egg it’s perfect. Also great for baking and roasting although it won't give the food the same nutty, earthy flavor that Olive Oil will.
Canola/Corn Oil:
The best deep frying oils (although another favorite is lard). For Latkes, or chicken cutlets, or pan frying these are great as well. However, that's about all I would use them for.
*Canola and Corn Oil tend to go rancid quickly. Although you might not be able to smell it, taste a little bit, if it tastes bitter, toss it. Also, it tends to get tacky or sticky when it’s not good anymore. It's not gonna make you sick, but it’s gonna to make everything taste awful.
Sesame Oil:
One of the biggest mistakes people make with Sesame Oil is cooking with it. NEVER EVER COOK WITH SESAME OIL! Sesame Oil has a very high smoke quotient and burns way too quickly. If you're stir frying, splash your food with the Sesame Oil just before you've finished. Sesame Oil makes amazing sauces, marinades, and dressings, but I wouldn’t bake with it either unless you use very little and combine it with another oil. Sesame Oil will go rancid terribly quickly, so unless you use it a lot, keep it in the fridge.
Flavored oils:
Go to the local Greenmarket, Specialty Store, or Gourmet Store and you’re bound to find various flavored oils. You'll see oil with hot peppers, tarragon, rosemary, truffles etc... These make wonderful dipping oils and dressings, even sauces, but I wouldn't recommend cooking with them. Depending on what kind of oil it is, the flavor will either over intensify and make food bitter, or the flavor will just disappear as you cook.
*Great homemade gift: Get a jug of decent Olive Oil or Extra Virgin Olive Oil. Fill a tight fitting glass jar or bottle with fresh herbs, spices, or even edible flowers, fill the container with oil. The flavors should infuse within a few weeks and makes a great and thoughtful gift.
Oil is essential in the kitchen. But, there are so many kinds, what's good, what do you use, and when?
Olive Oils
Great for dressings, sauces, sautéing, baking/roasting. Because of its low heat tolerance and high smoke levels not so great for frying.
Extra Virgin Olive Oil/Cold Press is a label that's given to the first batch of collected olives... in essence the youngest olives. They are processed without heat or chemicals and therefore fetch a higher price; to be Extra Virgin, there needs to be an acid level of below %0.6. Because of the flavor, these are best for dressings, and sauces, and dishes where the delicacy can shine through.
Normal Olive Oils are made from later batches of olives and might be heat processed (if by a larger commercial company), or chemically treated for impurities. This doesn't mean it’s not as good, just means it’s not as fragrant. It’s better for the sautéing and cooking since the flavor won't be wasted on these kinds of dishes.
*Olive Oil comes from around the globe. Personally, the oils with the best flavors are from Greece. They are the most robust, most fragrant, and amazing enough to eat straight from a spoon (my favorite easy-to-find Greek Olive Oil is "Iliada," if you can find the Organic Extra Virgin, even better!). Italian and Spanish Oils are a close second. Spanish Oils tend to be yellowish in color and have a medium strength flavor. Italian oils are more green and also have a medium flavor (although depending on the area of Italy, they can be as strong as Greek). French Olive Oil is very mild, (wimpy if you ask me) and not a favorite, but if you like mild (and boring), it’s heaven. Recently, and depending on where you live, you can find Middle Eastern/Israeli Olive Oils. I actually like these a great deal. The ones I've tried tend to be fragrant and sweeter than the Greek Oils which come across as earthier and nutty, not terribly expensive either.
Vegetable Oil:
Available everywhere and great for cooking. Personally, I'm not a big Veggie oil fan when it comes to deep frying, but for sautéing or frying an egg it’s perfect. Also great for baking and roasting although it won't give the food the same nutty, earthy flavor that Olive Oil will.
Canola/Corn Oil:
The best deep frying oils (although another favorite is lard). For Latkes, or chicken cutlets, or pan frying these are great as well. However, that's about all I would use them for.
*Canola and Corn Oil tend to go rancid quickly. Although you might not be able to smell it, taste a little bit, if it tastes bitter, toss it. Also, it tends to get tacky or sticky when it’s not good anymore. It's not gonna make you sick, but it’s gonna to make everything taste awful.
Sesame Oil:
One of the biggest mistakes people make with Sesame Oil is cooking with it. NEVER EVER COOK WITH SESAME OIL! Sesame Oil has a very high smoke quotient and burns way too quickly. If you're stir frying, splash your food with the Sesame Oil just before you've finished. Sesame Oil makes amazing sauces, marinades, and dressings, but I wouldn’t bake with it either unless you use very little and combine it with another oil. Sesame Oil will go rancid terribly quickly, so unless you use it a lot, keep it in the fridge.
Flavored oils:
Go to the local Greenmarket, Specialty Store, or Gourmet Store and you’re bound to find various flavored oils. You'll see oil with hot peppers, tarragon, rosemary, truffles etc... These make wonderful dipping oils and dressings, even sauces, but I wouldn't recommend cooking with them. Depending on what kind of oil it is, the flavor will either over intensify and make food bitter, or the flavor will just disappear as you cook.
*Great homemade gift: Get a jug of decent Olive Oil or Extra Virgin Olive Oil. Fill a tight fitting glass jar or bottle with fresh herbs, spices, or even edible flowers, fill the container with oil. The flavors should infuse within a few weeks and makes a great and thoughtful gift.
Coffee? Tea?
For Coffee Breaks and Afternoon Tea
Cafe La Fortuna
69 W 71ST St
New York, NY 10023
(212) 724-5846
An Upper West Side classic. Family-owned and run since forever. This is the place Lennon and Ono used to hang out. With their strict Opera only music selections, and their wonderful coffee and Italian desserts, this neighborhood spot is perfect for the casual get-together.
Wild Lily Tea Room
511 W 22nd St
New York, NY 10011
(212) 691-2258
This absolutely beautiful Japanese Tea Room has its own fish pond, a long list of traditional and nouveau Asian teas, and a lovely selection of edible goodies.
Edgar's Cafe
255 W 84th St.
New York, NY 10024
(212) 496-6126
Looking for a place with a great menu and a great cup of tea or coffee? This is it. Huge salads, wonderful sandwiches, and pastries too; plus, the place is painted to look like an aging English flat... tally ho!
The Carlyle Hotel
35 E 76th St
New York, NY 10021
(212) 744-1600
One of the last places in NYC where you can get a proper Afternoon English Tea with all the fixins'. Since the close of the Plaza (moment of silence please), the Carlyle has taken on the duty of one the only NYC hotels to still serve tea. I would suggest calling ahead, and saving that loose change for this one though.
Cafe Palermo
148 Mulberry St
New York, NY 10013
(212) 431-4205
Go to Ferrara's for "old timey" Little Italy, or go to this friendlier, and cheaper cafe. Good food and desserts, gelato, and of course, coffee.
Cafe La Fortuna
69 W 71ST St
New York, NY 10023
(212) 724-5846
An Upper West Side classic. Family-owned and run since forever. This is the place Lennon and Ono used to hang out. With their strict Opera only music selections, and their wonderful coffee and Italian desserts, this neighborhood spot is perfect for the casual get-together.
Wild Lily Tea Room
511 W 22nd St
New York, NY 10011
(212) 691-2258
This absolutely beautiful Japanese Tea Room has its own fish pond, a long list of traditional and nouveau Asian teas, and a lovely selection of edible goodies.
Edgar's Cafe
255 W 84th St.
New York, NY 10024
(212) 496-6126
Looking for a place with a great menu and a great cup of tea or coffee? This is it. Huge salads, wonderful sandwiches, and pastries too; plus, the place is painted to look like an aging English flat... tally ho!
The Carlyle Hotel
35 E 76th St
New York, NY 10021
(212) 744-1600
One of the last places in NYC where you can get a proper Afternoon English Tea with all the fixins'. Since the close of the Plaza (moment of silence please), the Carlyle has taken on the duty of one the only NYC hotels to still serve tea. I would suggest calling ahead, and saving that loose change for this one though.
Cafe Palermo
148 Mulberry St
New York, NY 10013
(212) 431-4205
Go to Ferrara's for "old timey" Little Italy, or go to this friendlier, and cheaper cafe. Good food and desserts, gelato, and of course, coffee.
Guide to Chocolate
The best brands, places to eat, order, and buy a girl’s REAL best friend. Remember, I'm a trained pastry chef, I just might know a thing or two about this.
Scharffen Berger
www.scharffenberger.com
This happens to be my favorite chocolate; based in California, these chocolates are completely made in America. There’s actually a store in Manhattan on Amsterdam Avenue on the Upper West Side -- very dangerous. Their chocolate is not for the faint-of-heart. Even the white chocolate has a bite. It's not really a great cooking chocolate, for one it’s too expensive for that, and it’s also a little too powerful. This chocolate is best enjoyed by itself or maybe melted over something... more chocolate maybe?
Callebaut
www.callebaut.be
People in the culinary world LOVE it, and so do most of the food snobs, I for one, hate the stuff. I think it’s waxy, and unimpressive. Quite frankly, there are better eating chocolates, and more bang-for-the-buck cooking chocolates. If however, my opinions means nothing to you (then what exactly are you doing at my blog huh?), you can buy blocks and chunks of it at the better gourmet markets and specialty stores.
Vosges
http://www.vosgeschocolate.com/
I remember reading an article about this fabulous American girl who, after finishing at Le Cordon Bleu in Paris, traveled to Morocco and fell in love with the Spice Markets. From that love, Vosges was born. One of the first people to make a real legit success of adding "unusual" spices to her truffles, she now has a couple of stores across the country and continues to expand. Her store in SOHO which is not only gorgeous, but has a table where you can enjoy her hot chocolate and anything else you might buy, is full of wonderful gifts and boxed items as well. I would highly suggest going and buying 3 of the strangest truffles you see and brag to your friends about it.
Chocolate Bar
www.chocolatebarnyc.com
The hipster’s chocolate. Totally decent, but more importantly, cool. They have made chocolate completely modern and hip. Grab your chocolates in your recycled box, get your 100% cotton t-shirt while your there as well, and like chill man…
Jacques Torres Chocolate
www.mrchocolate.com
I know, the website is completely pompous, but it is nothing if not deserved. If classic, elegant chocolates are what you’re looking for, Mr. Chocolate is your man. The chocolates are stunning, and of course they are outrageously expensive -- on the other hand, they are very much worth it. Take a trip to his Brooklyn store (now on the Upper West Side as well) and ogle whatever window display or architectural fete the man has pulled off this week.
Maison du Chocolat
www.lamaisonduchocolat.com
The Barney’s of Chocolates. No bells, no whistles; just simple, well made, flawless, and accordingly expensive chocolate.
Maribelle
www.mariebelle.com
I don't know if they even allow men into this place... Hands down the cutest chocolate on the block (ha-ha I made a funny). Maribelle was one of the pioneers of putting trendy cartoons on her chocolates (check out the website, you'll see what I mean). Beside being cute, she actually has a huge range of products, all impeccably packaged, and not half-bad either. This is the spot to get those cute little party favors, the perfect gift for Mom, or a treat for yourself.
Lindt
www.lindt.com
Hands down, the best bang-for-the-buck eating and cooking chocolate. You can find it everywhere, and the best major brand on the market.
Ghirardelli
www.ghirardelli.com
Because Lindt doesn’t sell chocolate chips, these are a step up from Nestle and the best supermarket chocolate chips you can buy.
Scharffen Berger
www.scharffenberger.com
This happens to be my favorite chocolate; based in California, these chocolates are completely made in America. There’s actually a store in Manhattan on Amsterdam Avenue on the Upper West Side -- very dangerous. Their chocolate is not for the faint-of-heart. Even the white chocolate has a bite. It's not really a great cooking chocolate, for one it’s too expensive for that, and it’s also a little too powerful. This chocolate is best enjoyed by itself or maybe melted over something... more chocolate maybe?
Callebaut
www.callebaut.be
People in the culinary world LOVE it, and so do most of the food snobs, I for one, hate the stuff. I think it’s waxy, and unimpressive. Quite frankly, there are better eating chocolates, and more bang-for-the-buck cooking chocolates. If however, my opinions means nothing to you (then what exactly are you doing at my blog huh?), you can buy blocks and chunks of it at the better gourmet markets and specialty stores.
Vosges
http://www.vosgeschocolate.com/
I remember reading an article about this fabulous American girl who, after finishing at Le Cordon Bleu in Paris, traveled to Morocco and fell in love with the Spice Markets. From that love, Vosges was born. One of the first people to make a real legit success of adding "unusual" spices to her truffles, she now has a couple of stores across the country and continues to expand. Her store in SOHO which is not only gorgeous, but has a table where you can enjoy her hot chocolate and anything else you might buy, is full of wonderful gifts and boxed items as well. I would highly suggest going and buying 3 of the strangest truffles you see and brag to your friends about it.
Chocolate Bar
www.chocolatebarnyc.com
The hipster’s chocolate. Totally decent, but more importantly, cool. They have made chocolate completely modern and hip. Grab your chocolates in your recycled box, get your 100% cotton t-shirt while your there as well, and like chill man…
Jacques Torres Chocolate
www.mrchocolate.com
I know, the website is completely pompous, but it is nothing if not deserved. If classic, elegant chocolates are what you’re looking for, Mr. Chocolate is your man. The chocolates are stunning, and of course they are outrageously expensive -- on the other hand, they are very much worth it. Take a trip to his Brooklyn store (now on the Upper West Side as well) and ogle whatever window display or architectural fete the man has pulled off this week.
Maison du Chocolat
www.lamaisonduchocolat.com
The Barney’s of Chocolates. No bells, no whistles; just simple, well made, flawless, and accordingly expensive chocolate.
Maribelle
www.mariebelle.com
I don't know if they even allow men into this place... Hands down the cutest chocolate on the block (ha-ha I made a funny). Maribelle was one of the pioneers of putting trendy cartoons on her chocolates (check out the website, you'll see what I mean). Beside being cute, she actually has a huge range of products, all impeccably packaged, and not half-bad either. This is the spot to get those cute little party favors, the perfect gift for Mom, or a treat for yourself.
Lindt
www.lindt.com
Hands down, the best bang-for-the-buck eating and cooking chocolate. You can find it everywhere, and the best major brand on the market.
Ghirardelli
www.ghirardelli.com
Because Lindt doesn’t sell chocolate chips, these are a step up from Nestle and the best supermarket chocolate chips you can buy.
December 4, 2007
Going to Market
Where to buy everything you need for a Duchess-worthy meal
Bodega's and Why I Love Them
I would NEVER buy a sandwich from one, I would never buy anything that has the word "fresh" on it (that includes milk or eggs, bad experiences) but when you need Oreos at 3am, nothing beats 'em. Also, if you're just the slightest bit brave, you'd be surprised what you can find. Depending on the 'hood you live in, and who owns the place, you can find random curry mixes, international sodas and sweets, great Asian soup mixes, and other wonderful things. Let's hear it for "Le Salle" ice cream, my favorite local Bodega "find."
Fairway
www.fairwaymarket.com
Those of us who grew up on the Upper West Side remember a floor covered with saw dust, wood crates of the freshest fruits and veggies, and a sliver of a space on Broadway and 74th... my my my how've they've grown! They now have multiple locations, huge store sizes, still the best and freshest fruits and veggies and, did I mention, they still manage to have some of the best prices in all of NYC? The 125th street location has a walk-in cold room filled with meats and milks and seafood etc -- it's in an old factory so the place is HUGE, and not just by NYC standards. The Red Hook location is even larger if possible and almost dizzying! They can get seriously crowded around holidays, and on weekends, but luckily they have wonderful hours, 7am to Midnight. If you go really early or really late, the place is all yours.
Zabars
www.zabars.com
Although my heart belongs to Fairway, there is no denying how wonderful Zabars is. With possibly the largest cheese and smoked fish selections you could hope for, this family-owned and run Upper West Side landmark has some surprises up its sleeve. If you can look past the cheeses to the stairway leading upstairs, you will find a treasure trove of Kitchen gadgets, pots and pans, mixers and gizmos. How they pack sooo much stuff into that space, I don't really know, but the prices are hard to beat, absolutely everyone is knowledgeable and knows where things are, and if they don't have it, they'll get it for you, "no problem." After exhaustive research, including the internet, I found that the best price on a Le Creuset 4 Quart Dutch Oven (see "What to Cook With") was indeed at Zabar's -- cheaper than Macy's or even JC Penny's.
Whole Foods
www.wholefoods.com
I have to admit, I'm not a fan. To their credit, their stuff is fresh and really well presented, and if you're a Vegetarian or Vegan, on a special diet, or have food allergies, it's a god-send. However, it's seriously over priced, very often just not as good as other markets (I have never had a more flavorless or dry roast chicken), and very often too complicated! I dare you try to find a normal box of chicken bullion... can't do it. Honestly, not EVERYTHING needs to be organic. As far as I'm concerned you can find cheaper, better, and more flavorful elsewhere.
Food Emporium & Gristede’s
If you're not near a Fairway, or don't feel like schlepping to one... ok. Food Emporium thinks it's better than it actually is and honestly, can be more expensive than it should be. Gristides' are ok, but limited. Go if you must, but I would highly recommend a trip to good 'ole Fairway. Trust me, it's worth it.
FreshDirect.com
If you go to the Uptown Fairway on 12th ave, at the checkout you will see a laminated price comparison list. Side-by-side prices of the same product from Gristede’s, Fairway, and FreshDirect, not surprisingly, Fairway is the cheapest, and FreshDirect the most expensive. Here’s the thing about FreshDirect… I have never gotten a complete carton of unharmed eggs, there are always some broken. I never order fresh meats or fish etc, because I don’t know how long that truck has been driving around. And finally, for all of its convenience, you never know what you’re going to get, and for all of you Environmentalists out there, you should see how packaged everything is: Styrofoam clam-shells for tomatoes, a plastic bag around everything, and 12 boxes for 1 box worth of food. I have to admit for a big party it's great (although expensive) because they can put everything on platters for you, but other than that, find an hour out of your week and squeeze your own damned tomatoes.
GreenMarkets
http://www.nycvisit.com/content/index.cfm?pagePkey=658
Not only are the NYC GreenMarkets a great deal of fun, they are diverse in their produce and foods, and have GREAT prices. Some are year-round, some are seasonal, but there’s sure to be one near you and you need to go. Fresh cheese from those Amish guys, Brook Trout from upstate, Health Breads from the Hippies… I highly recommend that you go to your local GreenMarket (check out the link for the closest one to you) and try something new. If you don’t know what it is, or how to cook it, ask the people selling, they always have really excellent ideas.
Kong Kee Foods
240 Grand St. (at Bowery)
For every kind of fresh, fried, baked, flavored, and marinated tofu under the sun, nothing beats Kong Kee. Cheap cheap cheap and fabulous, try some of their pre-packaged cooked tofu, my favorite is the spicy (not that spicy). They also make fresh dumpling skins, and noodles -- there are even a few grubby tables for eating your tofu or noodles on-site! While you're there, hop across the street to "Quickly" a place for every kind of bubble tea and icee you could hope for.
Chelsea Market
www.ChesleaMarket.com
Where to start! This place is awesome. More of a “Mall of Food” than one cohesive market, you can find the freshest pastas, flowers, breads, and much more. Go to Buon Italia for the fresh pumpkin ravioli (check out recipes section), go to Sarabeth’s for a Matin, a pastry made from strips of other pastries (if there are any left), and Cheese sticks, check out the Manhattan Fruit Exchange for every kind of mushroom under the sun, and wind up at the Bowery Kitchen Supply for anything you could need to cook with.
Trader Joe’s
www.traderjoes.com
There was a huge amount of buzz and joy when the news that a TJ’s was opening up in Union Square. While I have to admit that the wine store next door is in fact an amazing deal and not be missed, I found TJ’s to be so lackluster, and ordinary that it didn’t seem worth it. On top of which, the lines are beyond long; so long, that the first time I went I promptly left because the back of the line ended where the front door opened. Seems to me that you can find just as ordinary stuff for just as ordinary prices elsewhere.
Bodega's and Why I Love Them
I would NEVER buy a sandwich from one, I would never buy anything that has the word "fresh" on it (that includes milk or eggs, bad experiences) but when you need Oreos at 3am, nothing beats 'em. Also, if you're just the slightest bit brave, you'd be surprised what you can find. Depending on the 'hood you live in, and who owns the place, you can find random curry mixes, international sodas and sweets, great Asian soup mixes, and other wonderful things. Let's hear it for "Le Salle" ice cream, my favorite local Bodega "find."
Fairway
www.fairwaymarket.com
Those of us who grew up on the Upper West Side remember a floor covered with saw dust, wood crates of the freshest fruits and veggies, and a sliver of a space on Broadway and 74th... my my my how've they've grown! They now have multiple locations, huge store sizes, still the best and freshest fruits and veggies and, did I mention, they still manage to have some of the best prices in all of NYC? The 125th street location has a walk-in cold room filled with meats and milks and seafood etc -- it's in an old factory so the place is HUGE, and not just by NYC standards. The Red Hook location is even larger if possible and almost dizzying! They can get seriously crowded around holidays, and on weekends, but luckily they have wonderful hours, 7am to Midnight. If you go really early or really late, the place is all yours.
Zabars
www.zabars.com
Although my heart belongs to Fairway, there is no denying how wonderful Zabars is. With possibly the largest cheese and smoked fish selections you could hope for, this family-owned and run Upper West Side landmark has some surprises up its sleeve. If you can look past the cheeses to the stairway leading upstairs, you will find a treasure trove of Kitchen gadgets, pots and pans, mixers and gizmos. How they pack sooo much stuff into that space, I don't really know, but the prices are hard to beat, absolutely everyone is knowledgeable and knows where things are, and if they don't have it, they'll get it for you, "no problem." After exhaustive research, including the internet, I found that the best price on a Le Creuset 4 Quart Dutch Oven (see "What to Cook With") was indeed at Zabar's -- cheaper than Macy's or even JC Penny's.
Whole Foods
www.wholefoods.com
I have to admit, I'm not a fan. To their credit, their stuff is fresh and really well presented, and if you're a Vegetarian or Vegan, on a special diet, or have food allergies, it's a god-send. However, it's seriously over priced, very often just not as good as other markets (I have never had a more flavorless or dry roast chicken), and very often too complicated! I dare you try to find a normal box of chicken bullion... can't do it. Honestly, not EVERYTHING needs to be organic. As far as I'm concerned you can find cheaper, better, and more flavorful elsewhere.
Food Emporium & Gristede’s
If you're not near a Fairway, or don't feel like schlepping to one... ok. Food Emporium thinks it's better than it actually is and honestly, can be more expensive than it should be. Gristides' are ok, but limited. Go if you must, but I would highly recommend a trip to good 'ole Fairway. Trust me, it's worth it.
FreshDirect.com
If you go to the Uptown Fairway on 12th ave, at the checkout you will see a laminated price comparison list. Side-by-side prices of the same product from Gristede’s, Fairway, and FreshDirect, not surprisingly, Fairway is the cheapest, and FreshDirect the most expensive. Here’s the thing about FreshDirect… I have never gotten a complete carton of unharmed eggs, there are always some broken. I never order fresh meats or fish etc, because I don’t know how long that truck has been driving around. And finally, for all of its convenience, you never know what you’re going to get, and for all of you Environmentalists out there, you should see how packaged everything is: Styrofoam clam-shells for tomatoes, a plastic bag around everything, and 12 boxes for 1 box worth of food. I have to admit for a big party it's great (although expensive) because they can put everything on platters for you, but other than that, find an hour out of your week and squeeze your own damned tomatoes.
GreenMarkets
http://www.nycvisit.com/content/index.cfm?pagePkey=658
Not only are the NYC GreenMarkets a great deal of fun, they are diverse in their produce and foods, and have GREAT prices. Some are year-round, some are seasonal, but there’s sure to be one near you and you need to go. Fresh cheese from those Amish guys, Brook Trout from upstate, Health Breads from the Hippies… I highly recommend that you go to your local GreenMarket (check out the link for the closest one to you) and try something new. If you don’t know what it is, or how to cook it, ask the people selling, they always have really excellent ideas.
Kong Kee Foods
240 Grand St. (at Bowery)
For every kind of fresh, fried, baked, flavored, and marinated tofu under the sun, nothing beats Kong Kee. Cheap cheap cheap and fabulous, try some of their pre-packaged cooked tofu, my favorite is the spicy (not that spicy). They also make fresh dumpling skins, and noodles -- there are even a few grubby tables for eating your tofu or noodles on-site! While you're there, hop across the street to "Quickly" a place for every kind of bubble tea and icee you could hope for.
Chelsea Market
www.ChesleaMarket.com
Where to start! This place is awesome. More of a “Mall of Food” than one cohesive market, you can find the freshest pastas, flowers, breads, and much more. Go to Buon Italia for the fresh pumpkin ravioli (check out recipes section), go to Sarabeth’s for a Matin, a pastry made from strips of other pastries (if there are any left), and Cheese sticks, check out the Manhattan Fruit Exchange for every kind of mushroom under the sun, and wind up at the Bowery Kitchen Supply for anything you could need to cook with.
Trader Joe’s
www.traderjoes.com
There was a huge amount of buzz and joy when the news that a TJ’s was opening up in Union Square. While I have to admit that the wine store next door is in fact an amazing deal and not be missed, I found TJ’s to be so lackluster, and ordinary that it didn’t seem worth it. On top of which, the lines are beyond long; so long, that the first time I went I promptly left because the back of the line ended where the front door opened. Seems to me that you can find just as ordinary stuff for just as ordinary prices elsewhere.
Pasta for Dummies
"Life is a combination of magic and pasta"
-Fellini
Pasta Brands
The kind of dry pasta you use does in fact make a difference. For me, the best on the market is Barilla. They have a huge selection, and it does cook up "al dente every time." If you don't believe me, buy a box of Barilla and a box of Ronzoni and see for yourself.
Fresh Pasta
Fresh Pasta is a luxury. Not really because of the cost (although it can be expensive), but because it needs to be cooked relatively soon after you buy it, and you can't really get it at the local supermarket. However, if you want a treat get yourself some fresh ravioli or tortellini or gnocchi, boil for 2-3 minutes and enjoy! It cooks much faster than the dried stuff, and is more delicate, so don't walk away while it’s cooking.
Cooking It
I know that Chefs go on and on about the amount of water to the amount of pasta, but let's be honest, it's New York, and most of us don't have the luxury of having enough space for a huge pasta pot. So, cook your pasta in the largest pot you have with salt*. DO NOT PUT OIL IN YOUR PASTA WATER!! If you oil your water any sauce you use won't adhere to the pasta. Oiled Pasta Water is the result of slippery pasta with sauce on the bottom of your plate instead of on the noodles, where it should be. In terms of how long to cook your pasta, keep tasting it until it’s just barely cooked through, the times on the boxes are there as a guide and are almost always correct.
The Right Sauce for the Right Pasta
The easiest rule of thumb here is: the lighter the pasta, the lighter the sauce, the thicker the pasta, the thicker the sauce. So a light Farfalle (bow ties / butterflies) works best with a fresh and light sauce, and an Orecchiette (those things that look like ears) with a cream sauce because it's a heavier pasta. Of course feel free to throw that out the window. As far as I'm concerned, Pesto tastes good no matter what you put it on.
For a visual on pasta types try:
http://www.easypasta.com/pastal.htm
*TIP: Not sure if your water is salty enough... taste it. If it tastes like salt water, it's enough, if it doesn't add a little bit more. Don't be afraid to salt your water, it makes food flavorful.
-Fellini
Pasta Brands
The kind of dry pasta you use does in fact make a difference. For me, the best on the market is Barilla. They have a huge selection, and it does cook up "al dente every time." If you don't believe me, buy a box of Barilla and a box of Ronzoni and see for yourself.
Fresh Pasta
Fresh Pasta is a luxury. Not really because of the cost (although it can be expensive), but because it needs to be cooked relatively soon after you buy it, and you can't really get it at the local supermarket. However, if you want a treat get yourself some fresh ravioli or tortellini or gnocchi, boil for 2-3 minutes and enjoy! It cooks much faster than the dried stuff, and is more delicate, so don't walk away while it’s cooking.
Cooking It
I know that Chefs go on and on about the amount of water to the amount of pasta, but let's be honest, it's New York, and most of us don't have the luxury of having enough space for a huge pasta pot. So, cook your pasta in the largest pot you have with salt*. DO NOT PUT OIL IN YOUR PASTA WATER!! If you oil your water any sauce you use won't adhere to the pasta. Oiled Pasta Water is the result of slippery pasta with sauce on the bottom of your plate instead of on the noodles, where it should be. In terms of how long to cook your pasta, keep tasting it until it’s just barely cooked through, the times on the boxes are there as a guide and are almost always correct.
The Right Sauce for the Right Pasta
The easiest rule of thumb here is: the lighter the pasta, the lighter the sauce, the thicker the pasta, the thicker the sauce. So a light Farfalle (bow ties / butterflies) works best with a fresh and light sauce, and an Orecchiette (those things that look like ears) with a cream sauce because it's a heavier pasta. Of course feel free to throw that out the window. As far as I'm concerned, Pesto tastes good no matter what you put it on.
For a visual on pasta types try:
http://www.easypasta.com/pastal.htm
*TIP: Not sure if your water is salty enough... taste it. If it tastes like salt water, it's enough, if it doesn't add a little bit more. Don't be afraid to salt your water, it makes food flavorful.
November 30, 2007
Spaghetti Cabonara
November 10th, 2007
Although I've enjoyed the dish before, I've never actually made it. Made it last night with garlic bread and salad, it was gobbled up by roommate and boyfriend in minutes! This couldn't possibly be easier
1 Box of Spaghetti (unless its fresh, Barilla really does make the best)
3/4 cup grated Parmesan
1/2 cup Half & Half
3 eggs
10 Slices Bacon (or Pancetta, it should yield about 1/4 -1/2 cup cooked)
Salt & Fresh ground Pepper (yes, freshly ground DOES make a difference)
While your salted (ONLY salted, if you put oil in your pasta water, any sauce you use won't stick) water is boiling, fry up the cut up Bacon until really crispy and sent aside on paper towel. While the pasta is cooking, whisk the eggs, Half & Half, and cheese by hand until well combined.
Drain the pasta but not too much, you want some of the hot water on the pasta to help cook the eggs. Dump the egg mixture and bacon onto the pasta, and mix until you have a sauce. Add salt (remembering that there is cheese on it already, and the pasta was cooked in salt), and pepper and serve.
Start to finish... 20 minutes.
Although I've enjoyed the dish before, I've never actually made it. Made it last night with garlic bread and salad, it was gobbled up by roommate and boyfriend in minutes! This couldn't possibly be easier
1 Box of Spaghetti (unless its fresh, Barilla really does make the best)
3/4 cup grated Parmesan
1/2 cup Half & Half
3 eggs
10 Slices Bacon (or Pancetta, it should yield about 1/4 -1/2 cup cooked)
Salt & Fresh ground Pepper (yes, freshly ground DOES make a difference)
While your salted (ONLY salted, if you put oil in your pasta water, any sauce you use won't stick) water is boiling, fry up the cut up Bacon until really crispy and sent aside on paper towel. While the pasta is cooking, whisk the eggs, Half & Half, and cheese by hand until well combined.
Drain the pasta but not too much, you want some of the hot water on the pasta to help cook the eggs. Dump the egg mixture and bacon onto the pasta, and mix until you have a sauce. Add salt (remembering that there is cheese on it already, and the pasta was cooked in salt), and pepper and serve.
Start to finish... 20 minutes.
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