Someone to Cook For. Or: Excuse Me While I Gush.

There are those of us who love to cook. We like nothing better than starting with ingredients and making something wonderful by adding salt, oil, water, sugar, and bay leaves. For me its always been something that connects me to my Mother, who started off by making Crepes with me every Saturday morning. My Godmother, who I made cookies and chutney with from a young age; the smell of Éclair’s Bakery on West 72nd street on Fridays when we picked up our Challah, or the first time I ate Sushi with my Father, and his constant "you don't have to like it, but you HAVE to try it."

In Culinary school I had a very strong emotional and visceral connection to bread making. Elbow deep in sticky earthy smelling raw dough, kneading in a cloud of white flour, forming the loaf and baking -- it was an instant connection to every woman from the beginning of time who had done the exact same thing I was doing, and it was powerful.

The only real cooking I did while I was still living with my parents was holiday and party cooking. A 20-pound Turkey, fried Chicken for 4th of July, Lamb for Passover. It wasn't until I left home that I started really cooking. I tried different cuts of meats, new techniques, and different flavors. It was my own private culinary school crash course. There was something else I discovered when I was away from home; I didn't like cooking for myself. I didn't see the need to put much effort into food if it were just for me. Yes, it’s a beautiful piece of seared tuna, but it’s just for me, it felt somehow like a waste.

When friends came over for dinner I went all out. Not that it was Lobster and Caviar every time, but it was a dish I put love and time into, and they could taste that. I started dating a man in the summer of '06 -- someone who I felt from our very first date was different. It felt "right." It still does. I made him a Grilled Cheese sandwich early in the relationship. Nothing fancy, just some English Cheddar and the only bread I had -- some marbled rye. He ate about 4 of them. His yumm's and mmmm's made me beam.

He had never had a woman he was seeing cook for him before, I was perfectly happy to remedy that. Now as I said, I never loved cooking for myself, but give me one other person and I'm in heaven. Give me someone I care for, and I relish every drop of sweat, every cut finger, and every burn. I can't say that the way to his heart was through his stomach (although I'm sure it didn't hurt), but I can say that the every time I cook for him, it makes me smile. Seeing him satisfied, or introduced to something new that I've made, something he now loves, is one of the greatest joys of my life at this time.

Food means so much to humans. It means family, holidays, traditions, joy, comfort and a myriad of other memories and emotions. For me, it’s a promise to take care of him, and a promise that he will always have a home to come back to. Some of you might look cynically upon this -- it's not the 1950's anymore -- Women are liberated, and a home cooked meal for your man is no longer a requirement. How backward of you! I am a hard-core liberal, have marched on Washington for Women's Rights, am continually politically active, and have read my Gloria Steinem thank you very much. I'll never be barefoot and pregnant, I'll never put makeup on just because he'll be home in 15 minutes, and I don't have a problem with leaving him alone so I can go out with my friends. However, like a Comic gets a high from the audience's laughter, and an athlete prides herself on her finishing time, I get my greatest boosts when he invites people over for a home-cooked meal, or when he says "it's really good Baby."

Cooking is about connections -- connections to the past, to your ingredients, even to your body. So, it doesn't matter if you’re boiling hot dogs, or taking the whole day to make a roast, the underlying message is always the same. Make something for someone; it doesn't matter if it’s burnt or god-awful, all that matters is that you made the effort. I'm lucky enough to have found someone who appreciates me, and doesn't take me for granted. And for that, he gets quiche, roasts, chocolate mousse, and a place to call home.

Rachel Ray is a NTWOAT (no talent waste of air time)

I really hate Rachel Ray.

I'm not sure if it’s the hair, or her weird low voice. I'm not sure if it’s the Dunkin’ Donuts commercials. I'm not sure if it’s the Weather-woman-like reactions to everything -- don't you just half expect her to say "now back to you Ron..."

So it's all that and more. I find her particular brand of dumbed-down food to be the worst kind of 1950's American junk, oooo a twist on a Tuna Casserole! It's the "E.V.O.O." of it all (her "cute" little abbreviation for Extra Virgin Olive Oil). Only, and I mean ONLY could RR (not so cute when tables are turned huh!), make something as classic and lovely as Olive Oil into something that sounds like a McDonald's Marketing Team thought it up. Ok so I'm a snob. I can admit it, and SO WHAT? What's wrong with wanting a cooking show to open up people's ideas and conceptions of food, and make them try something new? Where the hell is Julia Child, or the Galloping Gourmet, or even the Two Fat Ladies when you need them? (Mostly dead I know, a moment of silence please).

Why, I mean really really why did she deserve her own talk show??? Excuse me... a talk show? What planet is this? How many different kinds of Buffalo Wings and Baked Potatos can she make and why do I want to hear her talk about it afterwards in her weird low-voiced-Weather-Woman way?

Anthony Bourdain would back me up on this, and please don't ask me who he is (http://www.anthonybourdain.com/copy.asp?g=1&id=7). He has his own hit list (mostly the pretty boys of the cooking world, top of his list, The Brit, Jamie Oliver. I suspect though his disdain comes from their immense popularity, frat-boy appeal, and just being younger, blonder, and less haggard than he.) Obviously I'm in the minority here, because every time I turn on the TV I see RR selling me dumbed-down American Coffee and Donuts.

Do me a favor and watch the Barefoot Contessa instead. She is just as charming and real, and makes amazing easy-to-make food for her husband, and friends, and her architect, and landscape designer, and vet, and anyone else that walks into her life. Trust me on this, YCTML (you can thank me later).

UPDATE 12/18/07:
Please read this terribly depressing entry from the Gothamist.
http://gothamist.com/2007/12/18/the_relentless.php

Oil Oil everywhere!

Don't Call it E.V.O.O.!!









Oil is essential in the kitchen. But, there are so many kinds, what's good, what do you use, and when?

Olive Oils
Great for dressings, sauces, sautéing, baking/roasting. Because of its low heat tolerance and high smoke levels not so great for frying.
Extra Virgin Olive Oil/Cold Press is a label that's given to the first batch of collected olives... in essence the youngest olives. They are processed without heat or chemicals and therefore fetch a higher price; to be Extra Virgin, there needs to be an acid level of below %0.6. Because of the flavor, these are best for dressings, and sauces, and dishes where the delicacy can shine through.
Normal Olive Oils are made from later batches of olives and might be heat processed (if by a larger commercial company), or chemically treated for impurities. This doesn't mean it’s not as good, just means it’s not as fragrant. It’s better for the sautéing and cooking since the flavor won't be wasted on these kinds of dishes.

*Olive Oil comes from around the globe. Personally, the oils with the best flavors are from Greece. They are the most robust, most fragrant, and amazing enough to eat straight from a spoon (my favorite easy-to-find Greek Olive Oil is "Iliada," if you can find the Organic Extra Virgin, even better!). Italian and Spanish Oils are a close second. Spanish Oils tend to be yellowish in color and have a medium strength flavor. Italian oils are more green and also have a medium flavor (although depending on the area of Italy, they can be as strong as Greek). French Olive Oil is very mild, (wimpy if you ask me) and not a favorite, but if you like mild (and boring), it’s heaven. Recently, and depending on where you live, you can find Middle Eastern/Israeli Olive Oils. I actually like these a great deal. The ones I've tried tend to be fragrant and sweeter than the Greek Oils which come across as earthier and nutty, not terribly expensive either.

Vegetable Oil:
Available everywhere and great for cooking. Personally, I'm not a big Veggie oil fan when it comes to deep frying, but for sautéing or frying an egg it’s perfect. Also great for baking and roasting although it won't give the food the same nutty, earthy flavor that Olive Oil will.

Canola/Corn Oil:
The best deep frying oils (although another favorite is lard). For Latkes, or chicken cutlets, or pan frying these are great as well. However, that's about all I would use them for.

*Canola and Corn Oil tend to go rancid quickly. Although you might not be able to smell it, taste a little bit, if it tastes bitter, toss it. Also, it tends to get tacky or sticky when it’s not good anymore. It's not gonna make you sick, but it’s gonna to make everything taste awful.

Sesame Oil:
One of the biggest mistakes people make with Sesame Oil is cooking with it. NEVER EVER COOK WITH SESAME OIL! Sesame Oil has a very high smoke quotient and burns way too quickly. If you're stir frying, splash your food with the Sesame Oil just before you've finished. Sesame Oil makes amazing sauces, marinades, and dressings, but I wouldn’t bake with it either unless you use very little and combine it with another oil. Sesame Oil will go rancid terribly quickly, so unless you use it a lot, keep it in the fridge.

Flavored oils:
Go to the local Greenmarket, Specialty Store, or Gourmet Store and you’re bound to find various flavored oils. You'll see oil with hot peppers, tarragon, rosemary, truffles etc... These make wonderful dipping oils and dressings, even sauces, but I wouldn't recommend cooking with them. Depending on what kind of oil it is, the flavor will either over intensify and make food bitter, or the flavor will just disappear as you cook.

*Great homemade gift: Get a jug of decent Olive Oil or Extra Virgin Olive Oil. Fill a tight fitting glass jar or bottle with fresh herbs, spices, or even edible flowers, fill the container with oil. The flavors should infuse within a few weeks and makes a great and thoughtful gift.

Coffee? Tea?

For Coffee Breaks and Afternoon Tea









Cafe La Fortuna
69 W 71ST St
New York, NY 10023
(212) 724-5846
An Upper West Side classic. Family-owned and run since forever. This is the place Lennon and Ono used to hang out. With their strict Opera only music selections, and their wonderful coffee and Italian desserts, this neighborhood spot is perfect for the casual get-together.

Wild Lily Tea Room
511 W 22nd St
New York, NY 10011
(212) 691-2258
This absolutely beautiful Japanese Tea Room has its own fish pond, a long list of traditional and nouveau Asian teas, and a lovely selection of edible goodies.

Edgar's Cafe
255 W 84th St.
New York, NY 10024
(212) 496-6126
Looking for a place with a great menu and a great cup of tea or coffee? This is it. Huge salads, wonderful sandwiches, and pastries too; plus, the place is painted to look like an aging English flat... tally ho!

The Carlyle Hotel
35 E 76th St
New York, NY 10021
(212) 744-1600
One of the last places in NYC where you can get a proper Afternoon English Tea with all the fixins'. Since the close of the Plaza (moment of silence please), the Carlyle has taken on the duty of one the only NYC hotels to still serve tea. I would suggest calling ahead, and saving that loose change for this one though.


Cafe Palermo
148 Mulberry St
New York, NY 10013
(212) 431-4205
Go to Ferrara's for "old timey" Little Italy, or go to this friendlier, and cheaper cafe. Good food and desserts, gelato, and of course, coffee.

Guide to Chocolate

The best brands, places to eat, order, and buy a girl’s REAL best friend. Remember, I'm a trained pastry chef, I just might know a thing or two about this.








Scharffen Berger
www.scharffenberger.com
This happens to be my favorite chocolate; based in California, these chocolates are completely made in America. There’s actually a store in Manhattan on Amsterdam Avenue on the Upper West Side -- very dangerous. Their chocolate is not for the faint-of-heart. Even the white chocolate has a bite. It's not really a great cooking chocolate, for one it’s too expensive for that, and it’s also a little too powerful. This chocolate is best enjoyed by itself or maybe melted over something... more chocolate maybe?

Callebaut
www.callebaut.be
People in the culinary world LOVE it, and so do most of the food snobs, I for one, hate the stuff. I think it’s waxy, and unimpressive. Quite frankly, there are better eating chocolates, and more bang-for-the-buck cooking chocolates. If however, my opinions means nothing to you (then what exactly are you doing at my blog huh?), you can buy blocks and chunks of it at the better gourmet markets and specialty stores.

Vosges
http://www.vosgeschocolate.com/
I remember reading an article about this fabulous American girl who, after finishing at Le Cordon Bleu in Paris, traveled to Morocco and fell in love with the Spice Markets. From that love, Vosges was born. One of the first people to make a real legit success of adding "unusual" spices to her truffles, she now has a couple of stores across the country and continues to expand. Her store in SOHO which is not only gorgeous, but has a table where you can enjoy her hot chocolate and anything else you might buy, is full of wonderful gifts and boxed items as well. I would highly suggest going and buying 3 of the strangest truffles you see and brag to your friends about it.

Chocolate Bar
www.chocolatebarnyc.com
The hipster’s chocolate. Totally decent, but more importantly, cool. They have made chocolate completely modern and hip. Grab your chocolates in your recycled box, get your 100% cotton t-shirt while your there as well, and like chill man…

Jacques Torres Chocolate
www.mrchocolate.com
I know, the website is completely pompous, but it is nothing if not deserved. If classic, elegant chocolates are what you’re looking for, Mr. Chocolate is your man. The chocolates are stunning, and of course they are outrageously expensive -- on the other hand, they are very much worth it. Take a trip to his Brooklyn store (now on the Upper West Side as well) and ogle whatever window display or architectural fete the man has pulled off this week.

Maison du Chocolat
www.lamaisonduchocolat.com
The Barney’s of Chocolates. No bells, no whistles; just simple, well made, flawless, and accordingly expensive chocolate.

Maribelle
www.mariebelle.com
I don't know if they even allow men into this place... Hands down the cutest chocolate on the block (ha-ha I made a funny). Maribelle was one of the pioneers of putting trendy cartoons on her chocolates (check out the website, you'll see what I mean). Beside being cute, she actually has a huge range of products, all impeccably packaged, and not half-bad either. This is the spot to get those cute little party favors, the perfect gift for Mom, or a treat for yourself.

Lindt
www.lindt.com
Hands down, the best bang-for-the-buck eating and cooking chocolate. You can find it everywhere, and the best major brand on the market.

Ghirardelli
www.ghirardelli.com
Because Lindt doesn’t sell chocolate chips, these are a step up from Nestle and the best supermarket chocolate chips you can buy.

Going to Market

Where to buy everything you need for a Duchess-worthy meal










Bodega's and Why I Love Them
I would NEVER buy a sandwich from one, I would never buy anything that has the word "fresh" on it (that includes milk or eggs, bad experiences) but when you need Oreos at 3am, nothing beats 'em. Also, if you're just the slightest bit brave, you'd be surprised what you can find. Depending on the 'hood you live in, and who owns the place, you can find random curry mixes, international sodas and sweets, great Asian soup mixes, and other wonderful things. Let's hear it for "Le Salle" ice cream, my favorite local Bodega "find."

Fairway
www.fairwaymarket.com
Those of us who grew up on the Upper West Side remember a floor covered with saw dust, wood crates of the freshest fruits and veggies, and a sliver of a space on Broadway and 74th... my my my how've they've grown! They now have multiple locations, huge store sizes, still the best and freshest fruits and veggies and, did I mention, they still manage to have some of the best prices in all of NYC? The 125th street location has a walk-in cold room filled with meats and milks and seafood etc -- it's in an old factory so the place is HUGE, and not just by NYC standards. The Red Hook location is even larger if possible and almost dizzying! They can get seriously crowded around holidays, and on weekends, but luckily they have wonderful hours, 7am to Midnight. If you go really early or really late, the place is all yours.

Zabars
www.zabars.com
Although my heart belongs to Fairway, there is no denying how wonderful Zabars is. With possibly the largest cheese and smoked fish selections you could hope for, this family-owned and run Upper West Side landmark has some surprises up its sleeve. If you can look past the cheeses to the stairway leading upstairs, you will find a treasure trove of Kitchen gadgets, pots and pans, mixers and gizmos. How they pack sooo much stuff into that space, I don't really know, but the prices are hard to beat, absolutely everyone is knowledgeable and knows where things are, and if they don't have it, they'll get it for you, "no problem." After exhaustive research, including the internet, I found that the best price on a Le Creuset 4 Quart Dutch Oven (see "What to Cook With") was indeed at Zabar's -- cheaper than Macy's or even JC Penny's.

Whole Foods
www.wholefoods.com
I have to admit, I'm not a fan. To their credit, their stuff is fresh and really well presented, and if you're a Vegetarian or Vegan, on a special diet, or have food allergies, it's a god-send. However, it's seriously over priced, very often just not as good as other markets (I have never had a more flavorless or dry roast chicken), and very often too complicated! I dare you try to find a normal box of chicken bullion... can't do it. Honestly, not EVERYTHING needs to be organic. As far as I'm concerned you can find cheaper, better, and more flavorful elsewhere.

Food Emporium & Gristede’s
If you're not near a Fairway, or don't feel like schlepping to one... ok. Food Emporium thinks it's better than it actually is and honestly, can be more expensive than it should be. Gristides' are ok, but limited. Go if you must, but I would highly recommend a trip to good 'ole Fairway. Trust me, it's worth it.

FreshDirect.com
If you go to the Uptown Fairway on 12th ave, at the checkout you will see a laminated price comparison list. Side-by-side prices of the same product from Gristede’s, Fairway, and FreshDirect, not surprisingly, Fairway is the cheapest, and FreshDirect the most expensive. Here’s the thing about FreshDirect… I have never gotten a complete carton of unharmed eggs, there are always some broken. I never order fresh meats or fish etc, because I don’t know how long that truck has been driving around. And finally, for all of its convenience, you never know what you’re going to get, and for all of you Environmentalists out there, you should see how packaged everything is: Styrofoam clam-shells for tomatoes, a plastic bag around everything, and 12 boxes for 1 box worth of food. I have to admit for a big party it's great (although expensive) because they can put everything on platters for you, but other than that, find an hour out of your week and squeeze your own damned tomatoes.

GreenMarkets
http://www.nycvisit.com/content/index.cfm?pagePkey=658
Not only are the NYC GreenMarkets a great deal of fun, they are diverse in their produce and foods, and have GREAT prices. Some are year-round, some are seasonal, but there’s sure to be one near you and you need to go. Fresh cheese from those Amish guys, Brook Trout from upstate, Health Breads from the Hippies… I highly recommend that you go to your local GreenMarket (check out the link for the closest one to you) and try something new. If you don’t know what it is, or how to cook it, ask the people selling, they always have really excellent ideas.

Kong Kee Foods
240 Grand St. (at Bowery)
For every kind of fresh, fried, baked, flavored, and marinated tofu under the sun, nothing beats Kong Kee. Cheap cheap cheap and fabulous, try some of their pre-packaged cooked tofu, my favorite is the spicy (not that spicy). They also make fresh dumpling skins, and noodles -- there are even a few grubby tables for eating your tofu or noodles on-site! While you're there, hop across the street to "Quickly" a place for every kind of bubble tea and icee you could hope for.

Chelsea Market
www.ChesleaMarket.com
Where to start! This place is awesome. More of a “Mall of Food” than one cohesive market, you can find the freshest pastas, flowers, breads, and much more. Go to Buon Italia for the fresh pumpkin ravioli (check out recipes section), go to Sarabeth’s for a Matin, a pastry made from strips of other pastries (if there are any left), and Cheese sticks, check out the Manhattan Fruit Exchange for every kind of mushroom under the sun, and wind up at the Bowery Kitchen Supply for anything you could need to cook with.

Trader Joe’s
www.traderjoes.com
There was a huge amount of buzz and joy when the news that a TJ’s was opening up in Union Square. While I have to admit that the wine store next door is in fact an amazing deal and not be missed, I found TJ’s to be so lackluster, and ordinary that it didn’t seem worth it. On top of which, the lines are beyond long; so long, that the first time I went I promptly left because the back of the line ended where the front door opened. Seems to me that you can find just as ordinary stuff for just as ordinary prices elsewhere.

Pasta for Dummies

"Life is a combination of magic and pasta"
-Fellini









Pasta Brands
The kind of dry pasta you use does in fact make a difference. For me, the best on the market is Barilla. They have a huge selection, and it does cook up "al dente every time." If you don't believe me, buy a box of Barilla and a box of Ronzoni and see for yourself.

Fresh Pasta
Fresh Pasta is a luxury. Not really because of the cost (although it can be expensive), but because it needs to be cooked relatively soon after you buy it, and you can't really get it at the local supermarket. However, if you want a treat get yourself some fresh ravioli or tortellini or gnocchi, boil for 2-3 minutes and enjoy! It cooks much faster than the dried stuff, and is more delicate, so don't walk away while it’s cooking.

Cooking It
I know that Chefs go on and on about the amount of water to the amount of pasta, but let's be honest, it's New York, and most of us don't have the luxury of having enough space for a huge pasta pot. So, cook your pasta in the largest pot you have with salt*. DO NOT PUT OIL IN YOUR PASTA WATER!! If you oil your water any sauce you use won't adhere to the pasta. Oiled Pasta Water is the result of slippery pasta with sauce on the bottom of your plate instead of on the noodles, where it should be. In terms of how long to cook your pasta, keep tasting it until it’s just barely cooked through, the times on the boxes are there as a guide and are almost always correct.

The Right Sauce for the Right Pasta
The easiest rule of thumb here is: the lighter the pasta, the lighter the sauce, the thicker the pasta, the thicker the sauce. So a light Farfalle (bow ties / butterflies) works best with a fresh and light sauce, and an Orecchiette (those things that look like ears) with a cream sauce because it's a heavier pasta. Of course feel free to throw that out the window. As far as I'm concerned, Pesto tastes good no matter what you put it on.

For a visual on pasta types try:
http://www.easypasta.com/pastal.htm

*TIP: Not sure if your water is salty enough... taste it. If it tastes like salt water, it's enough, if it doesn't add a little bit more. Don't be afraid to salt your water, it makes food flavorful.